Tsukiji to Ginza: Market Breakfast, Hamarikyu Gardens and City Streets

Script

1. 01 — Welcome to Tsukiji: The Market That Stayed

Begin outside Tsukijishijo Station Exit A1. Walk toward the Tsukiji Outer Market and stop at a wider public entrance area near the market streets. Do not block delivery carts, bicycles, workers or shop entrances.

Pochikichi: Pochika, I thought Tsukiji Fish Market moved away from here. Why are there still so many seafood shops?

Pochika: Because only the central wholesale market moved to Toyosu in 2018. The Outer Market stayed here, with seafood dealers, food shops and restaurants.

Pochikichi: So this is still a working market?

Pochika: Exactly. Professional buyers shop here, too. It's not just a tourist attraction.

Pochikichi: When did Tsukiji become famous for fish?

Pochika: The modern central wholesale market opened here in 1935, after the Great Kanto Earthquake destroyed the old Nihonbashi fish market.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1935.

Pochika: Imagine wholesalers arriving early, moving seafood through the new market complex. The surrounding streets developed businesses supplying both professionals and ordinary customers.

Pochikichi: What should I look at right now?

Pochika: Look at the narrow lanes, seafood displays and specialised shops. Some sell dried bonito, seaweed, knives and cooking ingredients.

Pochikichi: When should visitors come?

Pochika: Many shops close on Sundays and some Wednesdays. Professional buyers have priority before nine, and large suitcases should be left elsewhere. Kyochika already has a complete Tsukiji Outer Market audio guide. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: Let's find breakfast.

Pochika: Walk into the market's public shopping lanes. Our next stop is about three to five minutes away.

Sources: Tsukiji Outer Market Official Website — History, Tsukiji Outer Market — Hints for Shopping, GO TOKYO — Tsukiji Outer Market

2. 02 — Market Breakfast: A Town Built Around Food

Stand in a public shopping lane near Tsukiji Uogashi, where you can see seafood shops and prepared-food displays. Choose a wider space away from active deliveries. Eat only inside a shop or its designated eating area. Do not touch products unless invited.

Pochikichi: Everything smells delicious. Sushi, grilled seafood, tamagoyaki. Where should we start?

Pochika: First, remember that Tsukiji is a food market, not a street-food festival. The shops are small, and many still serve professional customers.

Pochikichi: What's tamagoyaki?

Pochika: A Japanese rolled omelette, often made in rectangular pans. Look for the neatly layered slices in the shop displays.

Pochikichi: How did all these specialist businesses gather here?

Pochika: They developed around the wholesale market established in 1935. Even after the central market relocated in 2018, the surrounding Outer Market remained.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1960.

Pochika: Tokyo was recovering and growing rapidly after the war. Restaurants and food businesses depended on wholesale suppliers, and Tsukiji was an important centre for fresh ingredients.

Pochikichi: Can we eat while walking?

Pochika: The market association asks visitors not to. Eat inside the shop or in its designated space. Ask before taking photographs, don't touch raw foods, and don't bargain.

Pochikichi: What about payment?

Pochika: Bring Japanese yen. Whether cards are accepted depends on the shop. Many businesses finish trading by early afternoon.

Pochikichi: And the market itself?

Pochika: The public streets remain accessible, but individual shops choose their opening days. After breakfast, walk east toward Tsukiji Hongwanji. Allow about seven to ten minutes.

Sources: Tsukiji Outer Market — How to Tour Tsukiji, Tsukiji Outer Market — Shopping Rules, GO TOKYO — Tsukiji Outer Market

3. 03 — Tsukiji Hongwanji: A Buddhist Temple That Looks Almost Indian

Stand in the open forecourt of Tsukiji Hongwanji, facing the main worship hall. Look at its curved roof, stone exterior and entrance decorations. If entering, move quietly and avoid standing in front of worshippers or blocking ceremonies.

Pochikichi: Wait, Pochika. This doesn't look like a Japanese temple at all. Why does it remind me of India?

Pochika: That's deliberate. Tsukiji Hongwanji was designed by the architect Chuta Ito, who drew inspiration from ancient Buddhist architecture in India and other parts of Asia.

Pochikichi: When was it built?

Pochika: The present main hall was completed in 1934. The previous building burned after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1934.

Pochika: The new temple had just been completed, combining Buddhist architectural influences from different regions with modern construction.

Pochikichi: But is the temple itself much older?

Pochika: Yes. It was founded near Asakusa in 1617 and rebuilt here in 1679 after the Great Fire of 1657. This site was originally reclaimed from the sea.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Notice the rounded roof and stone carvings of animals. Inside, there's also a pipe organ, unusual for a Japanese Buddhist temple.

Pochikichi: Can visitors enter?

Pochika: Yes. Entry is free. There is no regular weekly closing day. Respect services and people praying. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: Where next?

Pochika: Return west past the market, then continue toward Hamarikyu Gardens' Otemon Gate. Allow about fifteen to twenty minutes.

Sources: Tsukiji Hongwanji Official English Guide, Tsukiji Hongwanji — Official History, GO TOKYO — Tsukiji Area Guide

4. 04 — Hamarikyu Gardens: The Shogun's Palace by the Sea

Stand outside Hamarikyu Gardens' Otemon Gate, away from the ticket queue. After purchasing admission, cross the entrance bridge and follow the garden paths. Stop at a safe viewing point where the open lawns, old trees and Shiodome skyscrapers are visible.

Pochikichi: We've left the market, and suddenly there's a huge garden surrounded by skyscrapers. Who lived here?

Pochika: This was once a seaside residence belonging to the Tokugawa shogun's family. Today it's called Hamarikyu Gardens.

Pochikichi: Was it originally land?

Pochika: Much of the area was reclaimed from shallow coastal waters. In 1654, Matsudaira Tsunashige, younger brother of the fourth shogun, established a residence here.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1654.

Pochika: Imagine a newly developed seaside estate with water nearby and no skyscrapers. Edo's coastline was very different from today's Tokyo.

Pochikichi: And it became a palace later?

Pochika: When Tsunashige's son became the sixth shogun, the estate became a shogunal property called Hama Goten. Later, it became an imperial detached palace.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Look for the contrast between the low garden trees and the tall buildings of Shiodome. You're seeing several centuries of Tokyo in one view.

Pochikichi: Does the garden charge admission?

Pochika: Yes. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: We have a longer guide here, right?

Pochika: Kyochika has a complete Hamarikyu Gardens audio guide. Follow the paths toward Shioiri-no-ike, about eight to ten minutes away.

Sources: Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association — Hamarikyu Gardens History, Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association — Official Hours and Admission, Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association — Frequently Asked Questions

5. 05 — Shioiri-no-ike: The Pond That Breathes with Tokyo Bay

Stand on a designated path beside Shioiri-no-ike, where the pond, Otsutai Bridge and Nakajima-no-ochaya Teahouse can be seen. Keep away from the water's edge. If visiting the teahouse, use the marked bridge and follow its seating and service instructions.

Pochikichi: This pond looks peaceful, but you said something unusual happens to the water?

Pochika: Yes. Shioiri-no-ike is a tidal pond. It uses seawater from Tokyo Bay, and sluice gates regulate the water as the tide rises and falls.

Pochikichi: So the sea really reaches this garden?

Pochika: It does. This is the only surviving traditional garden in Tokyo where seawater still flows into the pond.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1707.

Pochika: The garden was undergoing major improvements, including work on the large tidal pond, bridges and teahouses. The shogun's family used this landscape for recreation and receiving guests.

Pochikichi: What should I look at?

Pochika: Look at the water surface and the rocks along the shore. The pond contains fish such as mullet, sea bass and gobies.

Pochikichi: And that teahouse in the middle?

Pochika: That's Nakajima-no-ochaya. A teahouse stood there from the early 1700s, although the present structure was restored in 1983.

Pochikichi: Can we have tea?

Pochika: Yes, when the teahouse is operating. Food and drinks cost extra, and its hours can differ from the garden's. Keep food out of other garden areas unless permitted.

Pochikichi: And after the pond?

Pochika: Return along the marked paths to Otemon Gate, then walk toward Shiodome. Allow about fifteen to twenty minutes to reach the former Shimbashi Station area.

Sources: Hamarikyu Gardens — Official Viewpoints, Hamarikyu Gardens — Official History, Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association — Garden Information

6. 06 — Shiodome and Shimbashi: Where Japan's Railways Began

Stand in a safe pedestrian area near the reconstructed Old Shimbashi Station building in Shiodome. Look at the historical railway architecture and surrounding modern office towers. Do not stop in vehicle lanes. The historic station site lies east of today's JR Shimbashi Station.

Pochikichi: We're surrounded by modern office towers. But that old-looking station building seems out of place. What's its story?

Pochika: This is the site of the original Shimbashi Station, the Tokyo terminus of Japan's first railway.

Pochikichi: When did the trains begin running?

Pochika: In 1872, the railway opened between Shimbashi and Yokohama, transforming travel and trade.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1872.

Pochika: Imagine arriving at a newly opened railway terminal. Steam locomotives connected Tokyo with the port of Yokohama, where international trade was expanding.

Pochikichi: Is the building we're seeing original?

Pochika: No. It's a reconstruction representing the historic station. The original station was replaced as railway operations changed.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Notice the contrast between the reconstructed station architecture and the surrounding glass-and-steel towers. This area has repeatedly changed its role in Tokyo.

Pochikichi: Can we go inside?

Pochika: The Old Shimbashi Station site includes a railway-history exhibition facility. Exhibition access and closing days depend on its current schedule, so check before entering. Viewing the exterior from public space is free.

Pochikichi: And where does our walk continue?

Pochika: Head west toward the Shimbashi side, then turn north toward Ginza 8-chome. Allow about eight to ten minutes.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Shimbashi and Shiodome, Minato City Official Historical Walking Guide — Old Shimbashi Station, Ginza Official Website — History

7. 07 — Ginza 8-chome: The Shopping District Rebuilt in Brick

Stand on a wide pavement near the southern end of Ginza Chuo-dori in the Ginza 8-chome area, after arriving from Shimbashi. Face north along the main shopping avenue. Keep clear of intersections and store entrances.

Pochikichi: We've reached Ginza. The streets feel organised, with big shops and wide pavements. Was this always Tokyo's luxury shopping district?

Pochika: No. Ginza's commercial identity developed over centuries. One major turning point came after a great fire in 1872.

Pochikichi: What happened after the fire?

Pochika: The Meiji government rebuilt Ginza as a modern district with wider streets, brick buildings and gas lamps. The British architect Thomas James Waters helped design the redevelopment.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1873.

Pochika: Parts of Ginza were becoming a Western-style brick town. New buildings, shopfronts and pavements appeared as Tokyo experimented with modern urban design.

Pochikichi: Was the whole avenue completed at once?

Pochika: No. Construction progressed over several years. The buildings weren't all successful, but the street pattern helped shape modern Ginza.

Pochikichi: What should I look at today?

Pochika: Look north along Chuo-dori. The broad road, regular blocks and continuous commercial frontages reflect Ginza's long history as a planned shopping district.

Pochikichi: Does it cost anything to explore?

Pochika: No. It's a public street. Shop hours and closing days vary, although many stores open around late morning. Respect shop photography rules and keep entrances clear.

Pochikichi: Where next?

Pochika: Continue north along Chuo-dori. Allow about eight to ten minutes to reach the central shopping blocks around Ginza 6-chome.

Sources: Ginza Official Website — History of Ginza, GO TOKYO — Ginza Area Guide, Ginza Official Website — Pedestrian Zone

8. 08 — Ginza Chuo-dori: Why Cars Disappear on Weekends

Stand on the pavement along Chuo-dori near Ginza 6-chome. If the official pedestrian zone is operating, you may enter the roadway where permitted. Otherwise remain on the pavement. Look along the avenue toward the Ginza 4-chome intersection.

Pochikichi: Pochika, why is this road sometimes full of people instead of cars?

Pochika: That's Ginza's pedestrian zone, called Hokosha Tengoku, or pedestrian paradise. On designated afternoons, traffic is stopped and people can walk along the roadway.

Pochikichi: When did that start?

Pochika: The first pedestrian-zone event took place on August second, 1970, during a period of concern about traffic congestion and air pollution.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to that afternoon in 1970.

Pochika: Imagine the familiar shopping road suddenly filled with pedestrians. The idea was to give city streets back to people, rather than letting motor vehicles dominate them.

Pochikichi: What should I notice today?

Pochika: Look at the width of Chuo-dori and the buildings on both sides. When the road is closed, the whole avenue becomes an open walking space.

Pochikichi: When does that happen?

Pochika: Normally on Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: And if the weather is bad?

Pochika: Police may cancel it for severe weather or suspend it around New Year. Cycling, performances and organised commercial activities are prohibited in the pedestrian zone.

Pochikichi: So we can enjoy the street without getting in anyone's way.

Pochika: Exactly. Continue north for about five to seven minutes to Ginza 4-chome Crossing and the Wako Clock Tower.

Sources: Ginza Official Website — Pedestrian Zone Rules and Hours, Ginza Official Website — History, GO TOKYO — Ginza Area Guide

9. 09 — Wako Clock Tower: Ginza's Most Famous Corner

Stand on a safe pavement corner at Ginza 4-chome Crossing, where Chuo-dori meets Harumi-dori. Look toward the Wako building and its clock tower. Do not stop in the pedestrian crossing. After the track, follow signs to Ginza Station entrances nearby.

Pochikichi: There it is! That clock tower looks like something from an old European city. Why is it so famous?

Pochika: It's the Wako Clock Tower, one of Ginza's best-known landmarks. The building was completed in June 1932.

Pochikichi: Was there a clock tower here before?

Pochika: Yes. The first tower was completed in 1894, connected with the Hattori watch business, the predecessor of today's Seiko Group.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1932.

Pochika: The present building had just been completed after construction delays caused by the Great Kanto Earthquake. Its stone exterior and curved corner represented a new landmark for Ginza.

Pochikichi: Who designed it?

Pochika: The building was designed by Jin Watanabe's architectural office in a Neo-Renaissance style.

Pochikichi: What should I look at?

Pochika: Look up at the four clock faces, oriented almost exactly north, south, east and west. Notice the curved facade and decorative bronze details below.

Pochikichi: Does the clock still chime?

Pochika: Yes. According to Wako, the Westminster-style chime begins shortly before the hour, and the first strike marks the hour.

Pochikichi: Can we go inside?

Pochika: Wako is a commercial store, so browsing doesn't require a ticket. Individual departments have their own hours and closing arrangements.

Pochikichi: And that's the end of our walk?

Pochika: Yes. We've travelled from Tsukiji's food history through a shogun's garden to modern Ginza. Ginza Station is about two to four minutes away on foot. Follow the signs for the Ginza, Marunouchi or Hibiya Line.

Sources: Wako Official Website — History of Wako and the Clock Tower, Ginza Official Website — District History, GO TOKYO — Ginza Area Guide