Imperial Palace to Tokyo Tower: Edo Castle, Marunouchi and Zojo-ji

Script

1. 01 — Otemon: Entering the Castle of the Tokugawa Shoguns

Start at Otemachi Station Exit C13a. Walk approximately five minutes toward the Imperial Palace East Gardens' Otemon Gate. Stand on the public approach where the stone walls and moat are visible, without blocking the gate or security inspection area. Enter through the designated visitor entrance.

Pochikichi: Pochika, we're going to the Imperial Palace, but this entrance looks like a samurai castle. Why?

Pochika: Because it was. We're entering part of the former Edo Castle, the headquarters of the Tokugawa shogunate for more than 260 years.

Pochikichi: So the emperor didn't originally live here?

Pochika: Not during the Edo period. The shogun governed from this castle. After the political changes of 1868, it became an imperial residence.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1650.

Pochika: You would be approaching one of the great entrances to Edo Castle. Samurai guards controlled access, while enormous walls and moats protected the political centre of Japan.

Pochikichi: What should I look at right now?

Pochika: Look at the massive fitted stones and the gate's defensive arrangement. The entrance turns rather than leading straight into the castle.

Pochikichi: Can anyone visit the gardens?

Pochika: Yes. Admission is free, but there's a security check. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: And we have a full guide here?

Pochika: Yes. Kyochika already has a complete Imperial Palace East Gardens audio guide. After entering, walk about five minutes to Hyakunin Bansho.

Sources: Imperial Household Agency — East Gardens Visitor Information, Imperial Household Agency — East Gardens Historical Structures, Museum of the Imperial Collections — Otemon Access

2. 02 — Edo Castle: Where a Thousand Samurai Guarded the Shogun

Stand on the public path near Hyakunin Bansho, the long surviving guardhouse inside the East Gardens. Look along its wooden facade. Then follow signs toward the Honmaru and Tenshudai, using the marked garden paths. Do not enter historic buildings or restricted areas.

Pochikichi: That building is incredibly long. Was it some kind of samurai residence?

Pochika: It's Hyakunin Bansho, one of Edo Castle's surviving guardhouses. Samurai stationed here helped protect the approaches to the shogun's main compound.

Pochikichi: Does Hyakunin mean one hundred?

Pochika: Yes. The name refers to the groups of guards assigned here. They belonged to organisations responsible for protecting the castle.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1700.

Pochika: Edo was already one of the world's great cities. This was a guarded government complex, not a public park. Officials and retainers passed through carefully controlled entrances.

Pochikichi: So ordinary people couldn't just walk around?

Pochika: Certainly not as we can today. The castle was divided into areas with different security restrictions.

Pochikichi: What should I notice about the guardhouse?

Pochika: Look at its repeated openings and long, low roof. The building's shape helped guards watch movement along the approach.

Pochikichi: Are any of the original palace rooms still standing?

Pochika: The great Honmaru Palace is gone. Fires and later changes removed most of the old buildings. The surviving gates, walls and guardhouses help us understand the scale of the castle.

Pochikichi: And the castle tower?

Pochika: Only its stone foundation survives. Follow the signs toward Tenshudai. Allow about eight to ten minutes, including the uphill sections.

Sources: Imperial Household Agency — East Gardens Map and Buildings, Imperial Household Agency — Historic Structures and Gardens, Imperial Household Agency — Illustrated East Gardens Map

3. 03 — The Missing Castle Tower: Edo in the Great Fire of 1657

Stand on the designated public viewing area near Tenshudai, the enormous stone base of Edo Castle's former keep. Look at the large stone platform, then toward the open Honmaru Lawn. Keep to paths and permitted viewing areas. The foundation is accessible only when the East Gardens are open.

Pochikichi: Pochika, this enormous stone platform looks strong enough to hold a castle. So where's the tower?

Pochika: You're standing beside Tenshudai, the foundation of Edo Castle's former keep. The great wooden tower no longer exists.

Pochikichi: Was it destroyed in a war?

Pochika: In a fire. The last great keep was completed in 1638 under the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. It burned during the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine this exact place in 1638.

Pochika: A five-roofed castle keep rose above these grounds. Including its stone base, it stood roughly sixty metres high, overlooking the surrounding city.

Pochikichi: And after the fire, they never rebuilt it?

Pochika: They rebuilt the stone foundation, but not the tower. The castle continued to function without it.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Notice the size of the stone platform, and the huge open lawn nearby. The lawn occupies part of the former Honmaru, where the shogun's palace once stood.

Pochikichi: So we're walking through rooms that have disappeared?

Pochika: In a sense, yes. The ground preserves their location even though the buildings are gone. Please keep off restricted grass and historic stonework.

Pochikichi: Where to next?

Pochika: Follow the marked paths downhill toward Ninomaru Garden. Allow about eight to ten minutes.

Sources: Imperial Household Agency — Edo Castle Tenshudai, Imperial Household Agency — East Gardens Guide, Imperial Household Agency — Illustrated Garden Map

4. 04 — Ninomaru Garden: From a Shogun's Residence to a Public Garden

Stand on a designated path beside the pond in Ninomaru Garden. Choose a position with a view of the water, stones and trees. Do not enter the pond, step onto planted areas or feed the fish. After listening, follow signs back toward Otemon Gate.

Pochikichi: This is such a peaceful garden. It's hard to imagine we were standing inside a heavily guarded castle a few minutes ago.

Pochika: This is Ninomaru Garden, part of the former secondary compound of Edo Castle. The Tokugawa shoguns used this area for palace buildings and gardens.

Pochikichi: Is the pond exactly as it was four hundred years ago?

Pochika: No. The present garden was created during the twentieth-century development of the Imperial Palace East Gardens, drawing on historical garden records.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine this area in 1630.

Pochika: During the early Tokugawa period, Ninomaru contained buildings and landscaped grounds connected with the shogunal residence. Only the underlying site remains from that world.

Pochikichi: And when did ordinary visitors first come here?

Pochika: The East Gardens opened to the public on October first, 1968. That transformed former castle and imperial grounds into a place people could visit.

Pochikichi: What should I look at in the pond?

Pochika: Notice the carefully placed rocks, curved shoreline and ornamental fish. The garden also contains iris plantings that flower seasonally.

Pochikichi: Is there another entrance fee here?

Pochika: No. Ninomaru Garden is included in the free East Gardens visit. Follow the seasonal opening hours and remember that special imperial events can cause closures.

Pochikichi: What's next after all this greenery?

Pochika: Modern Marunouchi. Return through Otemon Gate, then walk southwest toward Gyoko-dori Avenue. Allow approximately twelve to fifteen minutes.

Sources: Imperial Household Agency — Ninomaru Garden and East Gardens History, Imperial Household Agency — East Gardens Visitor Information, Imperial Household Agency — Illustrated East Gardens Map

5. 05 — Marunouchi: The Road from the Imperial Palace to Tokyo Station

Stand on the broad public pavement near the western end of Gyoko-dori Avenue, looking east toward the red-brick Marunouchi Station Building. Use designated crossings when moving between the palace side and the station. Do not stop in the roadway.

Pochikichi: We've come out of a castle, and suddenly everything is offices, broad streets and glass towers. Is this still the old centre of Edo?

Pochika: Yes. This is Marunouchi, once part of the area surrounding Edo Castle. The name means inside the enclosure, reflecting its relationship with the castle.

Pochikichi: Who lived here during the shogun's time?

Pochika: Much of the district was occupied by the residences of powerful feudal lords, called daimyo.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1850.

Pochika: Instead of office towers, you'd see walled samurai estates and roads serving the castle. The area was connected with the political power of the Tokugawa government.

Pochikichi: And when did the modern business district appear?

Pochika: After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the former estates gradually changed. Major companies developed offices here, and Tokyo Station opened in 1914.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Look along Gyoko-dori. The broad avenue visually connects Tokyo Station with the Imperial Palace area. It's one of the capital's most symbolic urban views.

Pochikichi: Can we walk along it without paying?

Pochika: Yes. The public pavements and station square are free, with no regular closing day. Use pedestrian crossings and respect barriers during ceremonies or security operations.

Pochikichi: Let's go see that red-brick station.

Pochika: Walk east along Gyoko-dori for approximately five to seven minutes to Tokyo Station's Marunouchi Station Square.

Sources: Tokyo Station City — Tokyo Station History, JR East Railway and Transport Review — Marunouchi Station Restoration, Government of Japan — Architectural Regeneration

6. 06 — Tokyo Station: The Red-Brick Gateway of Modern Japan

Stand in Marunouchi Station Square facing Tokyo Station's red-brick facade. Leave enough room for passengers and pedestrians. Look at the central section and the north and south domes. After listening, enter through the marked Marunouchi entrance and follow signs to the JR Yamanote or Keihin-Tohoku Line.

Pochikichi: That station is enormous. The red bricks make it look almost European. When was it built?

Pochika: Tokyo Station opened on December twentieth, 1914. Its Marunouchi building was designed by the architect Kingo Tatsuno.

Pochikichi: Was this always Japan's main railway hub?

Pochika: It became a central connection in the national railway network, especially as lines and services expanded over the twentieth century.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here on opening day in 1914.

Pochika: You'd see the newly completed three-storey station building, with its long red-brick facade and grand domes. It represented the ambitions of a rapidly modernising Japan.

Pochikichi: Is the building still original?

Pochika: Parts survive, but it suffered serious damage during the air raids of 1945. Its upper floor and domes were restored in a major project completed in 2012.

Pochikichi: What should I look at?

Pochika: Notice the red bricks, pale stone details and symmetrical domes. If you enter the north or south dome, look upward at the restored interior decoration.

Pochikichi: Can we enter without a ticket?

Pochika: The public station areas are accessible without admission. Passing through railway ticket gates requires a valid ticket or fare. Shops and the station gallery have separate arrangements.

Pochikichi: And our next destination?

Pochika: Take a southbound JR Yamanote or Keihin-Tohoku train to Hamamatsucho, about seven minutes. Allow another five to ten minutes for station access and waiting.

Sources: Tokyo Station City — History and Opening Date, Tokyo Station City — Marunouchi Building Highlights, Tokyo National Research Institute for Cultural Properties — Station Restoration

7. 07 — Hamamatsucho and Daimon: The Road to a Shogun's Family Temple

Leave JR Hamamatsucho Station by the North Exit. Walk west along the public pavement toward Daimon, the large gate associated with Zojo-ji. Stop at a safe pavement position with the gate visible, avoiding crossings and vehicle lanes. Continue west toward Zojo-ji.

Pochikichi: We're back at street level, and I can see a gate in the middle of the road. Is that the entrance to Zojo-ji?

Pochika: Yes. This is Daimon, meaning Great Gate. It marks the traditional approach toward Zojo-ji, the major Buddhist temple ahead.

Pochikichi: Why would a temple need such an important entrance?

Pochika: Because Zojo-ji became one of the principal family temples of the Tokugawa shoguns. It was closely connected to Edo's ruling government.

Pochikichi: Was the temple always here?

Pochika: No. Zojo-ji was founded in 1393 elsewhere in the region and moved to Shiba in 1598, after Tokugawa Ieyasu established his power in Edo.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine walking this road in 1600.

Pochika: The temple had recently moved here. The surrounding area was developing into an important religious district supported by the Tokugawa family.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Look west along the street toward the temple. The road still preserves the idea of a formal approach, although modern buildings and traffic surround it.

Pochikichi: Is Daimon the same as Zojo-ji's famous Sangedatsumon?

Pochika: No. Daimon is the outer gate. Sangedatsumon is the great inner gate farther west.

Pochikichi: Can we visit without paying?

Pochika: The public approach is free. Be careful crossing streets, and don't stand in traffic for photographs.

Pochikichi: Let's continue.

Pochika: Walk west along Daimon-dori for approximately seven to ten minutes toward Zojo-ji's Sangedatsumon Gate.

Sources: Zojo-ji Official Website — History, Zojo-ji Official Website — Historical Chronology, GO TOKYO — Zojo-ji Temple

8. 08 — Zojo-ji: The Temple That Survived the Shoguns

Stand in the public temple precincts near the Sangedatsumon restoration enclosure, without stopping in the narrow passage. As of November 2026, the historic gate is covered by a temporary protective structure. Continue toward the Main Hall, where the temple buildings and Tokyo Tower can be seen together. Do not obstruct worshippers.

Pochikichi: Pochika, look at this huge red gate. Is it really old?

Pochika: Yes. That's Zojo-ji's Sangedatsumon. It was rebuilt in 1622 and is one of the temple's most important surviving historic structures.

Pochikichi: It survived everything that happened to Tokyo since then?

Pochika: It did, including the fires and the wartime bombing that destroyed many of the temple's other buildings.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1622.

Pochika: The newly rebuilt gate marked an important threshold into a great Tokugawa-supported temple. Beyond it, large religious buildings served Buddhist worship and memorial ceremonies.

Pochikichi: And what about that enormous Main Hall?

Pochika: The present Daiden Main Hall was completed in 1974, replacing buildings lost during the Second World War.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Stand where you can see the temple roof with Tokyo Tower behind it. The contrast between Buddhist architecture and a modern broadcasting tower is one of Tokyo's memorable views.

Pochikichi: Do we need admission?

Pochika: The main precincts are free. Respect ceremonies and photography restrictions. Kyochika already has a complete Zojo-ji audio guide. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: Where are the shoguns buried?

Pochika: The Tokugawa graveyard is behind the Main Hall area. Walk about three to five minutes toward its entrance.

Sources: Zojo-ji Official Website — Temple Precincts, Zojo-ji — March 2026 Sangedatsumon Restoration Notice, Zojo-ji Official English Guide

9. 09 — The Tokugawa Graves: Six Shoguns and a Changing Tokyo

Stand near the entrance to the Tokugawa Shogunate Graveyard, on the designated visitor path behind the Main Hall area. As of November 14, 2026, the graveyard is temporarily closed, so listen outside the restricted area. Do not cross barriers or enter the cemetery during closure.

Pochikichi: So this temple actually contains the graves of the rulers of Edo?

Pochika: Yes. Six Tokugawa shoguns are buried at Zojo-ji, along with members of their families.

Pochikichi: Which shoguns are here?

Pochika: They include the second shogun, Hidetada, and later rulers such as Ienobu, Ietsugu, Ieshige, Ieyoshi and Iemochi.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine this area in 1866.

Pochika: The fourteenth shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, had died that year. The Tokugawa government was approaching its final years, and these temple grounds remained closely associated with the ruling family.

Pochikichi: Were all the original tomb buildings preserved?

Pochika: No. Much of the elaborate mausoleum architecture was destroyed during wartime bombing. The graveyard was later reorganised, preserving important burial monuments.

Pochikichi: What should I look at today?

Pochika: From the permitted area, look toward the graveyard entrance and surrounding temple grounds. These mark the surviving memorial site of the Tokugawa family.

Pochikichi: Can we enter right now?

Pochika: Not during the current closure. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: And normally?

Pochika: Admission is charged. Treat the graves as a place of remembrance, not a photography set.

Pochikichi: Now for Tokyo Tower?

Pochika: Yes. Walk uphill along the public route toward Tokyo Tower. Allow about ten to twelve minutes.

Sources: Zojo-ji Official Website — Tokugawa Shogunate Graveyard and 2026 Closure, Zojo-ji Official History — Six Tokugawa Shoguns, GO TOKYO — Zojo-ji Temple and Tokugawa Graves

10. 10 — Tokyo Tower: The City That Rose After the War

Stand in a safe public area at the base of Tokyo Tower, where its red-and-white steel structure can be viewed from below. Keep clear of vehicle access and the ticket entrance. If visiting the observation decks, enter through Foot Town and follow the ticket and lift instructions. Finish by walking to Akabanebashi Station.

Pochikichi: We've reached Tokyo Tower! From down here, it's even taller than I expected. Why was it built?

Pochika: Tokyo Tower was constructed as a broadcasting tower during Japan's postwar television boom. It opened on December twenty-third, 1958.

Pochikichi: How tall is it?

Pochika: Three hundred and thirty-three metres. When completed, it was taller than the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in December 1958.

Pochika: The new steel tower had just been completed after about a year and a half of construction. Japan was entering a period of rapid economic growth, and television was becoming part of everyday life.

Pochikichi: Who designed the structure?

Pochika: Structural engineer Tachu Naito led the engineering design. Look upward at the steel lattice and the broad legs supporting the tower.

Pochikichi: Can we go up?

Pochika: Yes. The Main Deck is one hundred and fifty metres high, and the Top Deck is two hundred and fifty metres high. Both require tickets.

Pochikichi: What are the opening hours?

Pochika: The Top Deck has separate tour schedules and may close because of weather. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: And our walk ends here?

Pochika: Yes. We've travelled from Edo Castle's stone walls to the red-brick railway station and finally Tokyo's modern skyline. Walk downhill for approximately five to eight minutes to Akabanebashi Station on the Toei Oedo Line.

Sources: Tokyo Tower Official Website — History, Tokyo Tower Official Website — Tickets and Opening Hours, Tokyo Tower Official Website — Access to Akabanebashi Station