Harajuku to Shibuya: Meiji Jingu, Fashion Streets and the Scramble Crossing

Script

1. 01 — Harajuku Station: From Tokyo's Trains into a Sacred Forest

Begin outside JR Harajuku Station's Omotesando Exit. Use the marked pedestrian crossing toward Meiji Jingu's South Entrance. Stop inside the entrance, beside the wide gravel approach where there is space for others to pass. Face the large torii gate and the forest beyond.

Pochikichi: Pochika, I thought Harajuku was all fashion shops and crowds. Why are we starting in a forest?

Pochika: Because Harajuku has two very different faces. Just beside the station is Meiji Jingu, one of Tokyo's most important Shinto shrines.

Pochikichi: Is this an ancient forest?

Pochika: No. The shrine and forest were created in the twentieth century. Meiji Jingu was established on November first, 1920, to honour Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1920. What would this entrance have looked like?

Pochika: The newly established shrine stood within a young, planned forest. Around one hundred thousand trees had been donated from across Japan, with the aim of creating a self-sustaining woodland.

Pochikichi: And now the trees are enormous.

Pochika: Look at the broad gravel path and tall trees. The forest was designed to mature over generations.

Pochikichi: Does the shrine charge admission?

Pochika: The main grounds are free and open daily from sunrise to sunset. Closing times change monthly. In November, the gates normally close at four ten in the afternoon.

Pochikichi: Anything we should avoid?

Pochika: Stay on the paths, don't run, and don't enter the woodland. Walk about ten to fifteen minutes toward the main shrine buildings.

Sources: Meiji Jingu Official Website — Establishment of Meiji Jingu, Meiji Jingu Official Website — Opening Hours and Admission, Meiji Jingu Official Website — Access

2. 02 — Meiji Jingu: A Shrine Built by a Nation

Stand in the open courtyard facing Meiji Jingu's main shrine buildings, clear of the prayer area. Look toward the main sanctuary and the large camphor trees within the courtyard. Listen from a respectful distance rather than playing audio close to worshippers.

Pochikichi: We've reached the main shrine, and it's surprisingly peaceful. What happened to these buildings during the war?

Pochika: Most of the original shrine buildings burned during the air raids of 1945. The forest largely survived.

Pochikichi: So the buildings we're looking at are newer?

Pochika: Yes. The main shrine complex was reconstructed in 1958 through donations and public support.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1958.

Pochika: The reconstructed sanctuary had just been completed. After years of wartime destruction and rebuilding, worshippers could again visit a restored main shrine.

Pochikichi: And those enormous trees in the courtyard?

Pochika: Look for the pair of camphor trees called Meoto Kusu. Their name means Husband-and-Wife Camphor Trees, and they're associated with prayers for family harmony.

Pochikichi: How should visitors pray?

Pochika: The customary method is two bows, two claps and one final bow. It's optional, and everyone should respect those praying.

Pochikichi: Can we photograph the sanctuary?

Pochika: Photography and video are prohibited at the main sanctuary where people pray. The Inner Garden and Meiji Jingu Museum also require separate admission. Kyochika already has a complete Meiji Jingu audio guide.

Pochikichi: Now for the famous shopping street?

Pochika: Yes. Return toward Harajuku Station, cross to its Takeshita Exit side, and allow about fifteen to twenty minutes to reach Takeshita-dori.

Sources: Meiji Jingu Official Website — Establishment and Reconstruction, Meiji Jingu Official Website — Precinct Guide, Meiji Jingu Official Website — Etiquette

3. 03 — Takeshita-dori: Three Hundred and Fifty Metres of Youth Culture

Stand at the western entrance of Takeshita-dori, across from JR Harajuku Station's Takeshita Exit. Move to one side before listening. Walk east along the approximately 350-metre shopping street, keeping shop entrances and pedestrian flow clear.

Pochikichi: What a change! We were in a quiet forest a moment ago, and now there's music, colourful clothing and sweet shops everywhere.

Pochika: Welcome to Takeshita-dori. This short street is one of Tokyo's best-known centres of youth fashion and popular culture.

Pochikichi: How long is it?

Pochika: About three hundred and fifty metres. You could walk through quickly, but most visitors stop to browse.

Pochikichi: Was it always like this?

Pochika: No. Harajuku's modern youth-fashion identity developed during the postwar decades. Let's imagine this street in 1970, before the colourful fashion scene of later decades became internationally famous.

Pochikichi: So the shops and styles would have been different?

Pochika: Very different. Today's shops reflect changing trends rather than one fixed Harajuku style.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Look at the shop windows. You'll find cute accessories, alternative fashion, character goods and photo booths called purikura.

Pochikichi: And all those crepe shops?

Pochika: They're part of the street's food culture. Most shops open during the daytime, but hours and closing days vary. The street itself is free and accessible every day.

Pochikichi: It's getting crowded.

Pochika: Weekend afternoons are especially busy. Don't stop suddenly, photograph strangers closely without permission or block shopfronts. Continue east for about five to seven minutes to the end of Takeshita-dori.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Takeshita-dori Street, GO TOKYO — Harajuku Fashion and Culture Guide, GO TOKYO — Shibuya, Harajuku and Omotesando Shopping Guide

4. 04 — Omotesando: The Avenue That Was Once a Shrine Approach

From the eastern end of Takeshita-dori, walk south toward Jingumae Crossing, where Meiji-dori meets Omotesando. Stand at a safe pavement corner, away from the crossing. Look east along the broad, tree-lined Omotesando avenue.

Pochikichi: This avenue feels completely different from Takeshita-dori. It's broad, lined with trees and full of impressive buildings.

Pochika: This is Omotesando. The name means main approach, and it refers to the route leading toward Meiji Jingu.

Pochikichi: So this fashionable avenue began as a shrine approach?

Pochika: Exactly. The avenue developed in connection with the establishment of Meiji Jingu in 1920.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in November 1920.

Pochika: Meiji Jingu had just opened. The avenue was connected with a new national shrine, not yet the international luxury-shopping destination we know today.

Pochikichi: What should I notice now?

Pochika: Look down the sloping avenue. The zelkova trees form a green corridor between the shopfronts and office buildings.

Pochikichi: And the architecture looks more expensive than Takeshita-dori.

Pochika: Omotesando is famous for flagship stores and striking contemporary architecture. Different architects have used the avenue to explore unusual shapes, materials and facades.

Pochikichi: Does it cost anything to explore?

Pochika: The avenue is public and free. Individual stores have their own hours and closing days. Some are closed or operate shorter hours during the New Year holidays.

Pochikichi: Where should we go next?

Pochika: Follow the pavement east along Omotesando for approximately seven to ten minutes to Omotesando Hills.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Explore Aoyama and Omotesando, GO TOKYO — Harajuku Area Guide, Meiji Jingu Official Historical Database — November 1920

5. 05 — Omotesando Hills: Modern Architecture on a Historic Avenue

Stand on the public pavement opposite Omotesando Hills, where you can see its long facade without blocking the shops or pedestrian flow. If entering, use the public entrance and observe the interior's sloping circulation route. Return west toward Jingumae afterward.

Pochikichi: This building seems to follow the slope of the street. Is that deliberate?

Pochika: Yes. This is Omotesando Hills, designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando. It opened in 2006.

Pochikichi: It doesn't look like a typical shopping mall.

Pochika: That's part of its design. The main building follows the surrounding streetscape, and inside there's a gently sloping spiral route around a central atrium.

Pochikichi: What was here before?

Pochika: The site included the historic Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments, built in the aftermath of the Great Kanto Earthquake. Their replacement was controversial.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 2006.

Pochika: Omotesando Hills was opening as a new commercial development. The project brought contemporary architecture and fashion retail to a site remembered for earlier residential buildings.

Pochikichi: And what should I look at from here?

Pochika: Look at the long, relatively low facade following the avenue. The building's form responds to the slope rather than presenting a conventional tower.

Pochikichi: Can we go inside without buying a ticket?

Pochika: Yes. Browsing the commercial spaces is generally free. Shops and restaurants charge for purchases, with hours and occasional closures varying by business.

Pochikichi: Our next stop is Cat Street?

Pochika: Right. Walk back west toward Jingumae, then turn south into the Cat Street area. Allow approximately ten to twelve minutes.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Omotesando Hills, GO TOKYO — Aoyama and Omotesando Architecture Walk, GO TOKYO — Harajuku Fashion and Architecture

6. 06 — Cat Street: Tokyo's Independent Fashion Lane

Stand near the northern section of Cat Street, south of Omotesando and west of Meiji-dori. Choose a safe space beside the pedestrian route. Face south along the narrow street toward Shibuya, with small boutiques and cafes on either side.

Pochikichi: Cat Street? I expected to see cats everywhere. Where are they?

Pochika: Despite the name, this isn't a cat sanctuary. It's a fashionable street connecting the Harajuku and Shibuya areas.

Pochikichi: Is the name connected to a story?

Pochika: There are different explanations for the nickname, but no single verified origin we should treat as fact.

Pochikichi: What makes this street special?

Pochika: It's known for a mixture of independent boutiques, vintage fashion, designer shops and cafes. The atmosphere is different from both Takeshita-dori and Omotesando.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1990.

Pochika: Harajuku's youth-fashion culture was already well established, but this street's particular collection of shops and storefronts continued to change. The brands we see today aren't a fixed historical scene.

Pochikichi: What should I look at?

Pochika: Notice the smaller storefronts and the way this street feels more intimate than the broad avenues nearby.

Pochikichi: Can we shop at any time?

Pochika: The public street is free and has no regular closing time. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: It's quieter than Takeshita-dori.

Pochika: Often, yes, but weekends can still be crowded. Keep to the pedestrian space, respect residents and ask before photographing inside stores. Continue south along Cat Street for about ten minutes.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Harajuku Area Guide and Cat Street, GO TOKYO — Shibuya, Harajuku and Omotesando Shopping, GO TOKYO — Shibuya Area Guide

7. 07 — Miyashita Park: A Public Park Above the Streets

From southern Cat Street, follow the public route toward Miyashita Park beside Meiji-dori. Stop outside the shopping complex, then use the designated escalators or lifts to reach the public rooftop park if open. Listen from a safe area away from sports facilities and busy entrances.

Pochikichi: Pochika, there's a park on top of a shopping centre. Was this always part of Shibuya?

Pochika: The original Miyashita Park opened in 1953. It's been rebuilt and redesigned several times as Shibuya has changed.

Pochikichi: A park from 1953? What would this spot have looked like then?

Pochika: Imagine a newly established public park near the railway and busy streets, without today's shopping complex or rooftop sports facilities.

Pochikichi: When did it become a rooftop park?

Pochika: It was redeveloped into an elevated park during the 1960s. The present complex combines a rooftop public park with shopping, restaurants and a hotel.

Pochikichi: What should I look at when we get upstairs?

Pochika: Look for the green spaces, skateboarding area, bouldering facilities and views across the surrounding city.

Pochikichi: Can anyone visit?

Pochika: The public rooftop park is free, although sports facilities and commercial activities have separate conditions. Operating hours apply, and the park closes during its New Year holiday period.

Pochikichi: What about the shops?

Pochika: They have varying hours and occasional closures. The rooftop can become busy during afternoons, weekends and events.

Pochikichi: And how should we behave?

Pochika: Respect the sports areas, don't obstruct users and follow the site's smoking and photography rules. After visiting, continue south toward Shibuya Station and the Scramble Crossing, around seven to ten minutes away.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Miyashita Park, GO TOKYO — Shibuya Area Guide, GO TOKYO — Explore Shibuya

8. 08 — Shibuya Scramble Crossing: Thousands of People, One Intersection

Stand on the pavement near Shibuya Scramble Crossing, on the station side or another designated pedestrian waiting area. Keep away from the kerb while listening. Look across the junction toward the large video screens and surrounding buildings. Cross only when the pedestrian signal permits.

Pochikichi: There it is! People are crossing in every direction. How does anyone know where to go?

Pochika: This is Shibuya Scramble Crossing, one of Tokyo's most famous intersections. When the pedestrian signals turn green, people can cross in several directions at once.

Pochikichi: Doesn't that cause chaos?

Pochika: It looks chaotic, but the traffic signals separate pedestrians from turning vehicles. Large crowds can still make it difficult to move.

Pochikichi: How many people cross at once?

Pochika: Tokyo's official tourism guide says more than a thousand people may cross during a single signal cycle. The number changes with time and conditions.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing near this station in 1934.

Pochika: Shibuya was already a railway district, but the giant video screens, present station complex and modern streetscape didn't exist. You would have seen a very different intersection.

Pochikichi: What should I look at right now?

Pochika: Watch one complete signal cycle from the pavement. Notice the vehicles stopping before pedestrians move across the junction.

Pochikichi: Is there an admission fee?

Pochika: No. This is a public crossing, accessible whenever normal traffic regulations allow. Evenings, weekends and holidays can be very busy.

Pochikichi: Can I take a video while crossing?

Pochika: Don't stop in the road or obstruct anyone for a photograph. Cross with the signal and keep walking. Kyochika already has a full Scramble Crossing and Hachiko audio guide. The statue is about two minutes away on the station side.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Shibuya Scramble Crossing, GO TOKYO — Shibuya Area Guide, GO TOKYO — Explore Shibuya

9. 09 — Hachiko: The Dog Who Became Shibuya's Meeting Place

Stand in Hachiko Square outside Shibuya Station, a short distance from the Scramble Crossing. Find a safe place with a view of the bronze Hachiko Statue without blocking the photography queue or station entrance. Finish by following signs to your chosen railway line inside Shibuya Station.

Pochikichi: So this is Hachiko. The statue is smaller than I imagined. Why is this dog so famous?

Pochika: Hachiko was an Akita dog born in 1923. His owner was Hidesaburo Ueno, a professor at Tokyo Imperial University.

Pochikichi: And he waited at the station?

Pochika: Yes. Hachiko regularly accompanied or met his owner at Shibuya Station. After Professor Ueno died suddenly in 1925, Hachiko continued returning to the station.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1934.

Pochika: An original bronze statue was unveiled here while Hachiko was still alive. He attended the unveiling ceremony. His story had already become widely known in Japan.

Pochikichi: Is this the original statue?

Pochika: No. It was removed during wartime metal collection. The present second statue was unveiled in 1948.

Pochikichi: What should I notice?

Pochika: Look at the dog sitting patiently on his pedestal. Today the statue is one of Tokyo's best-known meeting places.

Pochikichi: Can we visit whenever we like?

Pochika: Yes. The outdoor statue is free and has no regular closing day. But Hachiko Square can be extremely crowded. Keep the photograph queue moving and don't block station entrances.

Pochikichi: We've gone from a sacred forest to Tokyo's busiest streets.

Pochika: And that's Harajuku and Shibuya in one walk. Our route ends here. Shibuya Station's Hachiko Entrance is about one to three minutes away. Allow additional time to reach your platform.

Sources: Shibuya City Library — Hachiko and the History of the Statue, Shibuya City Official Website — Hachiko's Life, GO TOKYO — Hachiko Statue