Asakusa to Ueno: Senso-ji, Old Tokyo Streets and the National Museum

Script

1. 01 — Kaminarimon: The Thunder Gate That Welcomes Asakusa

Start at Asakusa Station. From Tokyo Metro Ginza Line Exit 1, walk toward Kaminarimon, approximately 3 minutes. Other Asakusa railway stations have different exits. Stand in the public pedestrian area facing Kaminarimon Gate, away from the road crossing and main pedestrian flow. Look up at the large red lantern and the statues on either side.

Pochikichi: Pochika, is that enormous red lantern really the entrance to Senso-ji? I've seen it in photographs all my life.

Pochika: It is. Welcome to Asakusa! This is Kaminarimon, the Thunder Gate, one of Tokyo's most recognisable landmarks.

Pochikichi: Why is it called the Thunder Gate?

Pochika: Its formal name is Furaijinmon, the Gate of the Wind and Thunder Gods. Look at the statues. Fujin, the wind god, stands on one side, and Raijin, the thunder god, on the other.

Pochikichi: Has this gate stood here since ancient times?

Pochika: Not this structure. The previous gate burned down in 1865. The present one was rebuilt in 1960 through a donation by businessman Konosuke Matsushita.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1959.

Pochika: You wouldn't see this great gate at all. It had been missing for almost a century. The following year, the reconstructed entrance finally welcomed visitors again.

Pochikichi: Can we walk through without paying?

Pochika: Yes. The gate and outdoor temple approach are free and have no regular closing day. The area gets crowded, especially on weekends and holidays. Take photographs without blocking the road or other visitors. Kyochika already has a full Senso-ji audio guide.

Pochikichi: Where to next?

Pochika: Walk through the gate into Nakamise Shopping Street, just one minute ahead.

Sources: Senso-ji Official Website — Kaminarimon, Senso-ji Official Historical Chronology, GO TOKYO — Senso-ji and the Appearance of Kannon

2. 02 — Nakamise: Tokyo's Shopping Street from the Edo Period

Stand near the southern end of Nakamise Street, just beyond Kaminarimon. Find a space beside the pedestrian flow without blocking shop entrances. Look north toward Hozomon Gate and the rows of shops on both sides.

Pochikichi: This street is incredible. Shops on both sides, souvenirs everywhere, and another huge gate at the end. Has Nakamise always been a shopping street?

Pochika: For centuries. Nakamise is one of Japan's oldest shopping streets. Its history is usually traced to around 1685, during the Edo period.

Pochikichi: Why were shops allowed so close to a temple?

Pochika: The temple permitted local residents to operate small stalls in return for helping maintain and clean the grounds. The arrangement gradually developed into a shopping street.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1685.

Pochika: Imagine temporary wooden stalls selling sweets, toys and everyday goods to people visiting Senso-ji. The buildings and shopfronts were very different from today's permanent shops.

Pochikichi: And the present street?

Pochika: Look at the red shopfronts stretching about 250 metres toward Hozomon Gate. The street was rebuilt several times, including after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

Pochikichi: Is everything open every day?

Pochika: No. Each shop sets its own hours and closing days. Many operate during the daytime. The street itself remains accessible outside shopping hours.

Pochikichi: Can we eat while walking?

Pochika: It's better to eat beside the shop where you purchased food, rather than walking through the crowds. Take rubbish to the shop's designated collection point.

Pochikichi: What's beyond the street?

Pochika: Continue north for about four to five minutes to Senso-ji's Main Hall.

Sources: Senso-ji Official Website — Nakamise, Senso-ji Official Precinct Guide, GO TOKYO — Senso-ji Temple

3. 03 — Senso-ji: The Temple of the Hidden Kannon

Stand in the open forecourt of Senso-ji's Main Hall, away from the incense burner, prayer queue and central approach. Face the large temple building. If entering the hall, follow the signs and worshippers' flow, and observe photography restrictions.

Pochikichi: The Main Hall is much bigger than I expected. How did a temple in the middle of Tokyo begin?

Pochika: According to temple tradition, two fishermen discovered a small image of Kannon in the Sumida River in 628.

Pochikichi: So that actually happened?

Pochika: It's the temple's founding tradition, not an independently verified event. The story says the local leader recognised the image as Kannon, the Buddhist figure associated with compassion.

Pochikichi: Can we see that original image?

Pochika: No. The principal image is a hibutsu, a hidden Buddhist image. It is not displayed to the public.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1958.

Pochika: The Main Hall had just been reconstructed. The previous building was destroyed during the Tokyo air raids of March 1945. Its rebuilding became an important symbol of postwar recovery.

Pochikichi: What should I look at now?

Pochika: Notice the huge roof and the incense burner in front. People offer incense and pray here, so give them space.

Pochikichi: Does it cost anything?

Pochika: Ordinary entry is free. The outdoor grounds remain accessible. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: And our next stop?

Pochika: Kappabashi is optional, about fifteen minutes west on foot. If skipping it, return to Asakusa Station, roughly ten minutes away, for the Ginza Line.

Sources: Senso-ji Official Website — Main Hall, Senso-ji Official Website — Principal Image of Kannon, Senso-ji Official Precinct Guide — Opening Hours

4. 04 — Optional: Kappabashi, the Street That Supplies Tokyo's Kitchens

Optional extension. From Senso-ji, walk west toward Kappabashi Kitchenware Town, approximately 15 minutes. Stop on a public pavement along Kappabashi Dougu Street where kitchenware shops and their distinctive signs are visible. Keep shop doorways clear.

Pochikichi: Pochika, why are there giant cooking tools on the buildings? Are we still sightseeing, or have we entered a kitchen?

Pochika: Both! This is Kappabashi Kitchenware Town, a district filled with shops selling equipment for professional cooks and home kitchens.

Pochikichi: How did an entire street become devoted to kitchen tools?

Pochika: Its commercial history began around 1912, when a small number of tool dealers and secondhand merchants opened businesses in the area.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1912.

Pochika: Imagine a modest street with a handful of merchants, rather than today's long district of specialised shops. Over the following decades, it developed into a centre for restaurant equipment.

Pochikichi: What should I look at today?

Pochika: Look for Japanese knives, ceramic bowls, cooking utensils and shop signs shaped like oversized kitchen tools.

Pochikichi: Can regular tourists buy things here?

Pochika: Yes. Many shops welcome individual shoppers. But don't handle sharp knives without permission, and check each shop's photography policy.

Pochikichi: When should we visit?

Pochika: There's no admission fee to the street itself. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: Shall we look at those realistic food models next?

Pochika: Yes. Continue along the shopping street for about five minutes to find shops displaying food samples.

Sources: Kappabashi Shopping Street Association — History, GO TOKYO — Kappabashi Kitchenware Town, Kappabashi Shopping Street Association — Official Website

5. 05 — Kappabashi's Food Models: When Fake Food Looks Real

Optional track. Stand outside a Kappabashi shop displaying realistic food samples, such as model sushi, noodles or desserts. Stay on the public pavement and do not touch merchandise without permission. If skipping Kappabashi, skip this track and continue to Track 06.

Pochikichi: That sushi looks delicious. Wait, it's plastic? Even the rice grains look real!

Pochika: That's a shokuhin sanpuru, a food sample. They're realistic models used to show customers what a dish looks like.

Pochikichi: Why did Japanese restaurants start using them?

Pochika: Food samples became popular in the early twentieth century, as restaurants found ways to show customers unfamiliar dishes before ordering.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine Tokyo in 1932.

Pochika: Commercial food models were becoming established in Japanese restaurant displays. A realistic model could help customers choose a meal without relying only on written descriptions.

Pochikichi: Were they always plastic?

Pochika: No. Early examples were often made with wax. Modern models commonly use durable synthetic materials.

Pochikichi: What should I look at here?

Pochika: Look closely at the shiny sauce, noodle texture and individual grains of rice. The aim is to reproduce the appearance of a real dish.

Pochikichi: Can visitors buy them?

Pochika: Many shops sell miniature food models, magnets and other souvenirs. Some also offer workshops, but advance reservations may be required.

Pochikichi: Do shops charge for browsing?

Pochika: Ordinary browsing is generally free. Workshops and merchandise cost extra. Shop hours and closing days vary, especially on Sundays.

Pochikichi: Time to head toward Ueno?

Pochika: Yes. Walk approximately five to ten minutes to Tawaramachi Station on the Ginza Line.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Kappabashi Kitchenware Town, Kappabashi Shopping Street Association — Official Website, Kappabashi Shopping Street Association — History

6. 06 — The Ginza Line: Tokyo's First Underground Railway

If coming directly from Senso-ji, stand outside Tokyo Metro Asakusa Station. If coming from Kappabashi, use Tawaramachi Station. Board a Ginza Line train toward Shibuya and get off at Ueno. Listen while safely standing on the platform or seated on the train, not while using stairs or escalators.

Pochikichi: We're taking the subway now. Is this line old?

Pochika: Very old by Tokyo standards. The Ginza Line began operating in 1927, making it Japan's first subway.

Pochikichi: Was Asakusa to Ueno the original section?

Pochika: Yes. The first service connected Asakusa and Ueno, opening on December thirtieth, 1927.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine boarding a train on opening day in 1927.

Pochika: Passengers were experiencing a new form of city transport, travelling underground between two important commercial and cultural districts.

Pochikichi: How long does that journey take today?

Pochika: About five minutes from Asakusa to Ueno. From Tawaramachi, it's about four minutes. All trains on this section stop at Ueno.

Pochikichi: What should I notice on the platform?

Pochika: Look at the orange Ginza Line signs and the station names. Between Asakusa and Ueno, the stops are Tawaramachi and Inaricho.

Pochikichi: And if someone wants to walk?

Pochika: Allow roughly thirty to forty minutes from Asakusa to Ueno, depending on the route. The subway saves time for visiting the museum.

Pochikichi: Do I need a special ticket?

Pochika: A regular Tokyo Metro fare applies. You can use a compatible transport IC card. Check station instructions for other accepted payment methods.

Pochikichi: Where do we go at Ueno?

Pochika: Follow the signs toward Ueno Park. Allow about eight to ten minutes from the subway platform to the park entrance.

Sources: Tokyo Metro — Ginza Line Stations, Tokyo Metro — Official Timetable, Tokyo Metro — Fares and Travel Times, April 2026

7. 07 — Ueno Park: From Shogun's Temple to Public Park

Enter Ueno Park from the direction of Ueno Station and stop in a wide section of the main park promenade, away from stairs and busy crossings. Look toward the tree-lined paths and the surrounding museum and cultural buildings.

Pochikichi: Ueno Park feels completely different from Asakusa. There are museums, trees and wide paths everywhere. Was this always a park?

Pochika: No. Much of this area once belonged to Kan'ei-ji, a major Buddhist temple founded in 1625.

Pochikichi: Who founded it?

Pochika: The Buddhist priest Tenkai established it with support from the Tokugawa shogunate. The temple became closely associated with the ruling Tokugawa family.

Pochikichi: So what happened to the temple?

Pochika: Much of the complex was destroyed during fighting in Ueno in 1868, when forces loyal to the shogunate resisted the new government.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1873.

Pochika: The former temple grounds were becoming one of Japan's earliest public parks. Ueno Park officially opened that October.

Pochikichi: And now the park is full of museums.

Pochika: Exactly. Look along the paths. The area developed into a major centre for culture, education and recreation.

Pochikichi: Is there an entrance fee?

Pochika: The public park is free, although museums, the zoo and some attractions charge admission. Individual facilities have separate opening hours and closing days.

Pochikichi: What about the cherry trees?

Pochika: The park attracts large crowds during cherry blossom season. Don't reserve space in prohibited areas, damage trees or leave rubbish behind.

Pochikichi: Where are we heading next?

Pochika: Walk west through the park toward Ueno Toshogu Shrine, approximately seven to ten minutes.

Sources: GO TOKYO — Ueno Park, Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association — History of Tokyo Parks, Kan'ei-ji Official Website — History

8. 08 — Ueno Toshogu: A Golden Shrine from the Shogun's Time

Stand along the public approach to Ueno Toshogu Shrine, with a view of the stone lanterns and the ornate Karamon Gate. Keep the central approach and prayer area clear. The paid inner viewing area allows a closer view of the shrine buildings, but the main building interior is not open to the public.

Pochikichi: Pochika, I wasn't expecting to find such an elaborate golden shrine in the middle of Ueno Park.

Pochika: This is Ueno Toshogu. It was founded in 1627 to honour Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate.

Pochikichi: Is it connected to the large Kan'ei-ji temple that used to be here?

Pochika: Yes. Both developed within the religious landscape closely associated with the Tokugawa government.

Pochikichi: Let's travel back to 1651.

Pochika: The third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, had the shrine's main buildings rebuilt. Imagine the freshly decorated carvings and gold-covered surfaces expressing the shogunate's power.

Pochikichi: Are these original Edo-period buildings?

Pochika: Much of the 1651 architecture survives. The shrine escaped destruction during later wars and major earthquakes.

Pochikichi: What should I look at?

Pochika: Look at the Karamon Gate, the decorative carvings and the rows of stone lanterns. The detailed surfaces are very different from the simplicity of many Buddhist temple buildings.

Pochikichi: Can we go inside?

Pochika: Ordinary shrine visits are free. The inner viewing area charges admission, and the shrine building interior is closed. Visiting hours vary seasonally, with shorter hours from October through February.

Pochikichi: And photography?

Pochika: Follow posted restrictions and leave space for people praying. Kyochika already has a complete Ueno Toshogu audio guide.

Pochikichi: Next is the National Museum?

Pochika: Yes. Walk northeast across Ueno Park for approximately ten to twelve minutes.

Sources: Ueno Toshogu Shrine — Official English Website, Ueno Toshogu Shrine — Official Visiting Information, GO TOKYO — Ueno Park and Historic Shrines

9. 09 — Tokyo National Museum: Where Japan Preserves Its History

Stand outside the main entrance of Tokyo National Museum at the northern end of Ueno Park. If entering, proceed through the ticket gate and stop in the central courtyard where the Honkan, the main Japanese Gallery building, is visible. Do not block the entrance or other visitors.

Pochikichi: We've reached the Tokyo National Museum. That building looks almost like a palace. Is this Japan's oldest museum?

Pochika: It's Japan's oldest national museum, tracing its origins to an exhibition held in 1872 at Yushima Seido.

Pochikichi: So it didn't begin here in Ueno?

Pochika: No. The museum moved to this site in 1882, on land that had once formed part of Kan'ei-ji's temple headquarters.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1882.

Pochika: A new museum building was opening on former temple land. The Meiji government was developing institutions for collecting, studying and displaying art and historical objects.

Pochikichi: And the present building?

Pochika: Look at the Honkan's large tiled roof and symmetrical facade. The present building opened in 1938, replacing an earlier structure damaged by the Great Kanto Earthquake.

Pochikichi: Can visitors see Japanese art inside?

Pochika: Yes. The museum presents collections of Japanese and Asian art and archaeology, although individual objects and galleries change.

Pochikichi: What do we need to know before entering?

Pochika: Admission is charged. Some dates have additional closures. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: Do we have a full guide?

Pochika: Yes. Kyochika already has a complete Tokyo National Museum audio guide. Allow about five minutes to reach the Honkan entrance from the museum's front gate.

Sources: Tokyo National Museum — Official History, Tokyo National Museum — Construction of the Present Honkan, Tokyo National Museum — Visitor Information

10. 10 — The Museum and the City: Tokyo's History in One Walk

Begin in the Tokyo National Museum's central courtyard after your visit, where the Honkan and other museum buildings are visible. Listen while stationary, then leave through the main entrance and follow the park signs south toward JR Ueno Station's Park Exit. Do not obstruct museum visitors or pedestrian paths.

Pochikichi: We've walked from an ancient temple in Asakusa to a national museum in Ueno. It's amazing how much Tokyo's history has changed.

Pochika: And the two places are connected. Both Asakusa and Ueno were important religious centres before modern Tokyo developed around them.

Pochikichi: But one remained a temple district, while the other became a great public park.

Pochika: Exactly. At Senso-ji, we saw a Buddhist temple whose history reaches back to the seventh century. Here, we saw land transformed from a shogunal temple complex into a public cultural district.

Pochikichi: Let's imagine standing here in 1938.

Pochika: The newly opened Honkan stood at the centre of the museum grounds. Its earthquake-resistant design reflected lessons learned from the disaster of 1923.

Pochikichi: And now people from all over the world come to see the collections.

Pochika: Yes. Before leaving, look at the different museum buildings around the courtyard. They represent different periods in the museum's development.

Pochikichi: Anything practical for visitors?

Pochika: Photography rules vary by gallery and object, so check the signs. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochikichi: And if the museum is closed?

Pochika: You can still enjoy the public park, but the ticketed museum grounds may be inaccessible.

Pochikichi: Time to head home?

Pochika: Our walk ends here. Leave by the main museum entrance and walk south through Ueno Park for approximately ten to twelve minutes to JR Ueno Station's Park Exit.

Sources: Tokyo National Museum — Official Historical Timeline, Tokyo National Museum — Visitor Information and Closures, GO TOKYO — Ueno Park and Access