Higashiyama on Foot Audio Guide – Self-Guided Tour in English

Script

1. Kiyomizu-zaka: The Road of Pilgrims and Potters

Begin on the upper section of Kiyomizu-zaka, below the entrance to Kiyomizu-dera. Stand to one side where the road widens, keeping shop entrances and the pedestrian flow clear. Gojo-zaka is another approach road that joins the temple area.

Pochika: Pochikichi, we're not even at the temple yet, and there are shops everywhere. Pottery, sweets, souvenirs. Has this always been a shopping street?

Pochikichi: For a very long time, yes. This is Kiyomizu-zaka, one of the roads leading pilgrims to Kiyomizu-dera. People came to worship, and businesses grew along their route.

Pochika: So the shops are part of the temple's history?

Pochikichi: Exactly. Kyoto City's preservation records describe this area as a temple-front town. By the middle of the Edo period, streets around the temples were developing into shopping districts.

Pochika: And all those beautiful bowls?

Pochikichi: That's another local tradition. Kiyomizu-yaki is a form of Kyoto pottery associated with this area. Look at the ceramics displayed in the shop windows. The bowls, plates, and cups connect today's shopping street with its craft history.

Pochika: Let's travel back to 1750. What would this road have been like?

Pochikichi: You would have been walking through a district shaped by temple visitors, with shops and places to rest along the approaches. The road was already part of Kyoto's religious and commercial life.

Pochika: And today we share it with quite a few people.

Pochikichi: Yes. This approach can become crowded, especially during popular sightseeing seasons. Kyoto's official tourism website provides congestion forecasts. Keep to the side when stopping, and don't block shop doors.

Pochika: Next, we continue uphill to the temple entrance. Allow about 5 minutes to reach the Nio-mon Gate.

Sources: Kyoto City — Sanneizaka Preservation District Plan, Kyoto City Tourism Association — Gion and Kiyomizu, Kyoto Travel — Congestion Forecast

2. Kiyomizu-dera: The Wooden Stage Above Kyoto

Enter Kiyomizu-dera through the official visitor route, using the paid admission area to reach the Main Hall. For the exterior view of the stage, stand at the designated viewing area near Okuno-in Hall, where the wooden supports can be seen across the slope. Do not stop on stairways or obstruct other visitors.

Pochika: Pochikichi, that enormous wooden platform looks as if it's floating above the hillside. Is that the famous Kiyomizu stage?

Pochikichi: It is. The Main Hall stands on the steep slope of Mount Otowa. Its projecting wooden stage is supported by a system of pillars and horizontal beams.

Pochika: It's much taller than I imagined.

Pochikichi: Nearly 13 meters above the ground. Look below the platform. The large wooden pillars and the beams connecting them are the important details.

Pochika: Were they really able to build something like this hundreds of years ago?

Pochikichi: Yes. The present Main Hall and stage were reconstructed in 1633. The builders used traditional timber joints to make a strong structure.

Pochika: Time travel to 1633, then. What was happening here?

Pochikichi: The present wooden stage was being reconstructed. The temple already had a much longer religious history, but this is the structure that visitors still see today.

Pochika: And the stage overlooks Kyoto.

Pochikichi: Yes. The temple is dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist figure associated with compassion. Entering the Main Hall and its viewing area requires admission. Kiyomizu-dera opens at 6 in the morning, with closing times varying by season.

Pochika: We have a separate Kyochika audio guide devoted to Kiyomizu-dera, so we'll keep this stop short.

Pochikichi: Now return toward Kiyomizu-zaka and follow the downhill route to Sannenzaka. Allow about 7 minutes.

Sources: Kiyomizu-dera — The Wooden Stage, Kiyomizu-dera — Visitor Guide, Kiyomizu-dera — Location and Opening Hours

3. Sannenzaka: A Stairway With a Strange Legend

Stand on a wider, level section beside the stone steps of Sannenzaka, also called Sanneizaka. Keep the steps clear, particularly when people are carrying luggage or walking downhill. Do not stand in the center to take photographs.

Pochika: This staircase is beautiful. But somebody told me that if you fall here, you'll die within three years. Is that true?

Pochikichi: That's an old legend, not a fact. The story already appears in Kyoto guidebooks of the Edo period.

Pochika: That's a rather frightening story for a tourist route.

Pochikichi: There's another part. People once believed a gourd could help recover the soul that escaped when someone fell. Shops here used to sell gourds.

Pochika: Now I understand why the story became famous. But why is it called Sannenzaka? Does san mean three?

Pochikichi: Yes. An eighteenth-century guide explained the name by saying the slope was made in 808, the third year of the Daido era. Another name, Sanneizaka, is associated with prayers for safe childbirth at a nearby temple.

Pochika: Look at these stone steps and wooden houses. Are they protected?

Pochikichi: They are part of the Sanneizaka historic preservation district, designated in 1976. Kyoto City protects the traditional buildings, stone paving, steps, and other features.

Pochika: Let's go back to the Edo period. Visitors were already hearing the same warning about falling here?

Pochikichi: Yes. The superstition was already written down. Today, the sensible reason to watch your feet is much simpler: these are real stone steps, and they can be slippery when wet.

Pochika: Next is Ninenzaka, another historic slope. Allow about 3 minutes downhill.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Sannenzaka Historical Explanation, Kyoto City — Sanneizaka Preservation District Plan, Kyoto Travel — Responsible Sightseeing

4. Ninenzaka: Old Kyoto and a Modern Coffee Shop

Stop at a level section of Ninenzaka where the traditional buildings can be viewed without blocking the stone steps. The Starbucks Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya store is at Masuya-cho 349. View its exterior from the public street without standing in the entrance or forming a queue outside.

Pochika: Pochikichi, this feels like a street from an old movie. The roofs, the wooden fronts, even the way the road bends.

Pochikichi: This is Ninenzaka, or Ninen-zaka. It belongs to the same protected historic district as Sannenzaka. Many buildings here preserve architectural styles from the late Edo period through the Taisho era.

Pochika: But isn't that a Starbucks over there?

Pochikichi: It is. The Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya store opened in June 2017 inside a traditional Japanese townhouse more than a century old.

Pochika: I almost walked past it. The sign is so different.

Pochikichi: Look at the entrance curtain and the wooden exterior. The company adapted the building rather than replacing it with a modern storefront. Inside, there are also tatami rooms.

Pochika: Let's travel to around 1910. What was happening here?

Pochikichi: This neighborhood was changing. Kyoto City's records describe residential development in the surrounding district during the late Meiji and early Taisho periods. The building now used by Starbucks dates from that earlier era.

Pochika: So this isn't just a street frozen in the past.

Pochikichi: Right. People still live and work here. Preservation means maintaining the character of the place while buildings continue to be used.

Pochika: And if we want coffee?

Pochikichi: The store asks visitors not to queue outside because it obstructs neighbors and pedestrians. Now follow the route toward Yasaka-dori and the pagoda. Allow about 5 minutes.

Sources: Starbucks Japan — Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya Opening, Kyoto City — Sanneizaka Preservation District Plan, Starbucks Japan — Kyoto Landscape Award

5. Yasaka Pagoda: The Tower Above the Street

Stand on Yasaka-dori, west of Hokan-ji Temple, where the road offers a view uphill toward the five-story pagoda. Choose a position against the side of the street, away from driveways and intersections. Remain outside the pagoda unless admission is clearly available that day.

Pochika: There it is! That five-story pagoda rising between the houses. It's one of the most recognizable views in Kyoto.

Pochikichi: That's Yasaka Pagoda, part of Hokan-ji Temple. The tower is about 46 meters tall.

Pochika: Why does it look so different from the temples we've just passed?

Pochikichi: Look at the five separate roofs, one above another. It's a Buddhist pagoda, and its height makes it visible above the surrounding houses. The street frames it almost perfectly.

Pochika: How old is the temple?

Pochikichi: Its foundation is traditionally associated with Prince Shotoku in 589. According to the temple story recorded by Kyoto's tourism authority, the construction was inspired by a dream. That's a traditional account, not something we can independently verify.

Pochika: Let's imagine this spot in 589. Would we see the same tower?

Pochikichi: No. The tower we see today is not the original sixth-century building. That date belongs to the traditional foundation story. The pagoda has a long history of rebuilding.

Pochika: Can we climb inside?

Pochikichi: Kyoto's official tourism guide says visitors may enter the pagoda to see its architecture and Buddhist images. But access can be restricted, so don't count on going inside without checking at the entrance.

Pochika: The view from the street is already worth stopping for.

Pochikichi: It is. Take photographs without blocking traffic or entering private property. Next, walk toward Nene-no-michi and Kodai-ji. Allow about 7 minutes.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism Association — Hokan-ji Temple, Yasaka Pagoda, Kyoto City — Sanneizaka Preservation District Plan, Kyoto Travel — Responsible Travel

6. Nene-no-michi and Kodai-ji: A Woman Behind Japan's Unification

Stand on Nene-no-michi near the entrance approach to Kodai-ji, keeping the walkway clear. The temple grounds require admission. Ishibe-koji is nearby, but the main route stays on public streets; respect privacy notices and do not enter restricted lanes or photograph private residences.

Pochika: This road has such a gentle name. Nene-no-michi. Who was Nene?

Pochikichi: Nene was the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the powerful warlord who unified Japan. She was also known as Kita-no-Mandokoro, and later Kodai-in.

Pochika: And this temple is connected to her?

Pochikichi: Very closely. After Hideyoshi's death, she founded Kodai-ji in 1606 to pray for him. Tokugawa Ieyasu supported the temple's establishment.

Pochika: What should we look for from here?

Pochikichi: Notice the stone-paved road, the walls, and the greenery around the temple approach. Kyoto City's preservation plan identifies this stretch as part of the historic landscape surrounding Kodai-ji.

Pochika: Let's travel to 1606. Nene was building this temple in memory of her husband?

Pochikichi: Yes. Some structures and materials associated with Hideyoshi's buildings were brought here. Several early buildings survive, including the mausoleum and historic tea houses.

Pochika: And that little lane nearby, Ishibe-koji?

Pochikichi: Its neighborhood was developed mainly from the late Meiji into the early Taisho period. It's a residential lane, not a public photography studio. Follow all posted access and photography restrictions.

Pochika: Can we visit Kodai-ji now?

Pochikichi: Admission is charged. The temple lists opening hours from 9 a.m., with last entry at 5 p.m. and closing at 5:30 p.m. Special openings may differ. Allow extra time if you go inside.

Pochika: Next we continue north toward Maruyama Park. About 8 minutes on foot.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Kodai-ji Historical Explanation, Kodai-ji Official Website — Visiting Information, Kyoto City — Sanneizaka Preservation District Plan

7. Maruyama Park: Kyoto's Famous Weeping Cherry

Enter Maruyama Park from the south and walk toward the central pond and the famous weeping cherry tree. Stand on a path or open public viewing area with the tree in sight. Do not step into planted areas or stand under restricted branches.

Pochika: Pochikichi, we've suddenly left the narrow streets behind. There's a pond, open space, and that extraordinary tree.

Pochikichi: Welcome to Maruyama Park. It opened in 1886 and is Kyoto City's oldest park. The landscape includes a strolling garden, ponds, and paths.

Pochika: Is that the famous cherry tree?

Pochikichi: Yes. It's the weeping cherry associated with Gion's night cherry blossoms. Look at the way its branches spread outward and hang down. Even without flowers, you can see its distinctive shape.

Pochika: I thought Kyoto was full of ancient gardens. Is this park ancient too?

Pochikichi: The park itself dates to the Meiji period. The landscape design is associated with Jihei Ogawa the Seventh, an important garden designer of that era.

Pochika: Let's go back to 1886. What changed here?

Pochikichi: On December 25 of that year, Maruyama Park officially opened. It became a public park in a city that was modernizing after the end of the Edo period.

Pochika: And now people come for the cherry blossoms every spring.

Pochikichi: Exactly. The usual flowering season is late March to early April, though the dates change each year. During blossom season, the park attracts many visitors, so keep paths open and protect the planted areas.

Pochika: Can we stay here without buying a ticket?

Pochikichi: Yes. Maruyama Park is a public park with no general admission charge. From here, walk west into Yasaka Shrine. Allow about 4 minutes.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Maruyama Park, Kyoto City Tourism — Maruyama Park Cherry Blossoms, Kyoto City — Maruyama Park Information

8. Yasaka Shrine: Where the Gion Festival Began

Walk west through the public grounds of Yasaka Shrine toward the West Gate, or Nishi-romon. Stop inside the shrine grounds on a wider section of the approach where you can see the red gate without obstructing worshippers. Do not stop in the roadway outside the gate.

Pochika: That bright red gate is beautiful. Is it the main entrance to Yasaka Shrine?

Pochikichi: It's the famous West Gate, but the shrine's formal main entrance is the South Gate. The West Gate faces Shijo-dori and is one of Gion's best-known landmarks.

Pochika: It looks very old.

Pochikichi: It is. The West Gate was rebuilt in 1497 after being destroyed during the Onin War. It's the oldest surviving building at Yasaka Shrine.

Pochika: Look at the roof and the two sides of the gate. It's almost like an entrance to another world.

Pochikichi: In 1913, when Shijo-dori was widened for the streetcar, the gate was moved six meters east and three meters north. Side structures were added in 1925.

Pochika: Now take me further back. What happened here in 869?

Pochikichi: An epidemic was spreading. According to Yasaka Shrine's history, people erected 66 ceremonial spears representing Japan's provinces and carried a portable shrine to Shinsen-en to pray for the disaster to end. This became the origin of the Gion Festival.

Pochika: So the festival began as a prayer against disease?

Pochikichi: Yes. The festival still takes place throughout July. Its best-known events include the float processions and the movement of the portable shrines.

Pochika: Can anyone visit the shrine grounds?

Pochikichi: General worship at Yasaka Shrine does not require an admission ticket. Bow respectfully, keep your voice low near worshippers, and follow any photography restrictions. Kyochika also has a separate Yasaka Shrine audio guide.

Pochika: Next, leave through the West Gate and follow Shijo-dori toward Hanamikoji. Allow about 6 minutes.

Sources: Yasaka Shrine — Buildings and Architecture, Yasaka Shrine — Gion Festival History, Yasaka Shrine — Historical Highlights

9. Shijo-dori and Hanamikoji: The Living Culture of Gion

Begin at the public intersection of Shijo-dori and Hanamikoji. Cross only at pedestrian crossings, then continue south along the public section of Hanamikoji. Stop beside a suitable building frontage without blocking entrances or traffic. Do not enter signed private side lanes.

Pochika: Pochikichi, we've reached Gion. I see restaurants, wooden buildings, and lanterns. Is this where geisha live and work?

Pochikichi: In Kyoto, they are called geiko, and apprentices are called maiko. Gion is one of Kyoto's traditional entertainment districts.

Pochika: What happens inside those beautiful buildings?

Pochikichi: Some are ochaya, traditional teahouses connected with Gion's performing arts and hospitality. These are working establishments, not museums that anyone can freely enter.

Pochika: Look at the wooden facades and lanterns. They make the whole street feel different from Shijo-dori.

Pochikichi: That's Hanamikoji. Kyoto's tourism authority describes it as a street lined with traditional teahouses. It remains part of an active neighborhood.

Pochika: Let's travel to the early Edo period. Was Gion already an entertainment district?

Pochikichi: Gion developed around the approaches to the shrine. During the Edo period, teahouses and entertainment became increasingly important, and the district expanded.

Pochika: If a maiko walks past, can I ask for a photograph?

Pochikichi: Don't stop, chase, touch, or follow her. Kyoto's official rules prohibit photographing geiko and maiko without permission. They may be on their way to work.

Pochika: And those small alleys? They look so inviting.

Pochikichi: Some are private. Never enter a restricted lane, and obey photography signs. Public Hanamikoji also carries traffic, so don't walk or pose in the middle of the road. The area can be busy, especially during sightseeing and evening dining periods.

Pochika: Next, we'll head north toward the Shirakawa stream and Tatsumi Bridge. Allow about 7 minutes.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism Association — Gion and Kiyomizu, Kyoto Travel — Guidelines for Visiting Kyoto, Kyoto Travel — Kyoto Nightlife and Hanamikoji

10. Gion Shirakawa: The Bridge Between Past and Present

Finish on the public riverside path at Gion Shirakawa, near Tatsumi Bridge and Shirakawa Minami-dori. Stand off the narrow bridge and away from doorways, keeping the route clear for residents. Observe photography restrictions. This is the end of the main walking course.

Pochika: Pochikichi, what a lovely place to finish. The water, the trees, and those old buildings beside the stream. Is this still Gion?

Pochikichi: Yes. This is Gion Shirakawa, part of the Gion Shinbashi historic district. It developed as a teahouse area, and its traditional buildings, stone paving, and trees are protected.

Pochika: And that little bridge?

Pochikichi: Tatsumi Bridge. Look at its wooden-looking railings and stone-paved surface. The bridge fits the traditional townscape, but its present structure was completed in 1957.

Pochika: Really? It looks much older.

Pochikichi: The first wooden bridge here was built in 1829. Today's bridge is made of steel, with details chosen to suit the surrounding streets.

Pochika: Let's travel back to 1712. What was happening beside this water?

Pochikichi: Kyoto City's records say this district was developed in 1712 as part of Gion's teahouse quarter. The buildings you see today mainly reflect later architecture, especially from the late Edo and early Meiji periods.

Pochika: So the setting has changed, but the connection with Gion's culture remains.

Pochikichi: Exactly. And remember, these are homes and working buildings. Keep voices down, don't block the bridge, and respect residents' privacy.

Pochika: Where could we explore next?

Pochikichi: Chion-in is a major temple northeast of Gion. Its grounds are free to walk through, but the gardens charge admission; check the temple's website for today's hours. Kennin-ji is another option south of Shijo-dori. And if you want more history, Kyochika has separate audio guides for Kiyomizu-dera, Yasaka Shrine, and Chion-in.

Pochika: We've walked from a pilgrims' road to a living entertainment district, through centuries of Kyoto history.

Pochikichi: And we've arrived. This is the end of our Higashiyama walk.

Sources: Kyoto City — Gion Shinbashi Preservation District Plan, Kyoto City — Tatsumi Bridge Historical Record, Chion-in Official Website — Visitor Information