Southern Kyoto Audio Guide – Self-Guided Tour in English

Script

1. 01 — JR Inari Station: Entering the Sacred Mountain

Start outside JR Inari Station, facing the large vermilion torii gate across the street. Stand clear of the station exit and road crossing. Cross at the designated crossing and follow the main approach toward Fushimi Inari Taisha.

Pochika: We've just stepped out of JR Inari Station, and there's already a huge red gate in front of us! Is the shrine really this close?

Pochikichi: Yes. Fushimi Inari Taisha is directly opposite the station. This is one of Kyoto's easiest major shrines to reach by train.

Pochika: How old is it?

Pochikichi: The shrine traces its establishment to 711, during the Nara period. That was before Kyoto became Japan's capital in 794.

Pochika: Let's imagine standing here in 711. What would we have seen?

Pochikichi: There was no railway, and the present entrance buildings didn't exist. According to shrine tradition, deities were enshrined on Mount Inari, the sacred mountain rising behind today's shrine.

Pochika: And what does Inari mean?

Pochikichi: The name is connected with rice and agricultural abundance. Over time, Inari worship also became closely associated with business prosperity.

Pochika: What should I look at right now?

Pochikichi: Look through the great red gate toward the wooded mountain. The buildings ahead are only the beginning of a much larger sacred area.

Pochika: Can we enter without a ticket?

Pochikichi: Yes. The outdoor shrine grounds have no admission fee or regular closing day. Follow the pedestrian route and don't block people coming out of the station. Walk about three to five minutes to the main shrine.

Sources: Fushimi Inari Taisha — Official History, Kyoto City Tourism — Comfortable Access to Fushimi Inari, Fushimi Inari Taisha — Official Visitor Rules

2. 02 — Fushimi Inari's Main Shrine: Why Are Foxes Everywhere?

Stand in the main shrine courtyard facing the Honden, or main shrine building. Keep away from the prayer line and offering area unless participating in worship. Look for the fox statues near the shrine buildings and approach.

Pochika: I can see fox statues everywhere. Are foxes the gods of Fushimi Inari?

Pochikichi: Not exactly. Foxes are considered messengers of Inari Okami, the deity worshipped here. The foxes themselves are not the main deity.

Pochika: Some of them seem to be holding things in their mouths.

Pochikichi: Look closely. Inari fox statues may hold objects such as keys, jewels or scrolls. They carry symbolic meanings connected with Inari worship.

Pochika: And how old is that main building?

Pochikichi: The original shrine buildings were destroyed during the Onin War in 1468. The present Honden was rebuilt in 1499.

Pochika: Let's travel back to 1499.

Pochikichi: Imagine the shrine rebuilding after decades of conflict. The new main building stood as a renewed centre of worship at the foot of Mount Inari.

Pochika: What should visitors do before taking pictures?

Pochikichi: Remember that people come here to pray. Don't interrupt worshippers, enter restricted buildings or block narrow paths for photographs.

Pochika: We already have a detailed guide to this shrine, don't we?

Pochikichi: Yes. Kyochika has a full Fushimi Inari Taisha audio guide. This walking course gives the shorter version before we continue north.

Pochika: Then let's find those famous red tunnels.

Pochikichi: Follow the uphill signs toward Senbon Torii. Allow five to eight minutes.

Sources: Fushimi Inari Taisha — Main Shrine Building, Fushimi Inari Taisha — Enshrined Deities, Fushimi Inari Taisha — Visitor Rules

3. 03 — Senbon Torii: The Meaning Behind a Thousand Red Gates

Stand at the beginning of Senbon Torii, where the closely spaced vermilion gates form two passageways. Listen from a safe space before entering. Walk with the pedestrian flow and do not stop in the middle of the narrow tunnels.

Pochika: There they are! I've seen these red gates in photographs, but I didn't realise they were packed so closely together.

Pochikichi: This is Senbon Torii, meaning Thousand Torii Gates. It's one of the best-known parts of Fushimi Inari Taisha.

Pochika: Who built all these gates?

Pochikichi: They're donated by worshippers. Giving a torii is a way of expressing a prayer or gratitude for blessings received.

Pochika: How long has that tradition existed?

Pochikichi: The shrine records that the practice of donating gates developed during the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868.

Pochika: Let's imagine walking here around 1800.

Pochikichi: Visitors were already donating gates, although the appearance and arrangement changed as new gates were added and old ones replaced.

Pochika: What should I look at while walking?

Pochikichi: Look at the writing on the backs of the gates. It records the names of donors and dates of dedication.

Pochika: Are the tunnels always this busy?

Pochikichi: Fushimi Inari is a major sightseeing destination, and the lower torii paths often attract heavy daytime crowds. Early morning generally makes walking easier, but it doesn't guarantee an empty path.

Pochika: Can we touch the gates or stop for pictures?

Pochikichi: Don't damage or mark the gates, and never block other visitors. Continue through the torii tunnel to Okusha. Allow approximately five minutes.

Sources: Fushimi Inari Taisha — Senbon Torii, Fushimi Inari Taisha — Visitor Rules, Kyoto City Tourism — Access to Fushimi Inari

4. 04 — Okusha: The Place Where Worshippers Face Mount Inari

Stand in the open courtyard at Okusha Hohaisho, beyond Senbon Torii. Keep the prayer area clear. Look toward the wooded mountain behind the building. The Omokaruishi stone lanterns are at the back right of the prayer area.

Pochika: We've come out of the red tunnel into a little shrine courtyard. Is this the end of the mountain path?

Pochikichi: No. This is Okusha Hohaisho, also called Okuno-in. The mountain trails continue much farther uphill.

Pochika: What makes this place special?

Pochikichi: Worshippers pray here toward Mount Inari itself. The mountain's three sacred peaks rise behind the building.

Pochika: So the mountain is part of the shrine, not just a background?

Pochikichi: Exactly. Inari worship has been connected with this mountain for more than thirteen centuries.

Pochika: So how long have people prayed at this spot?

Pochikichi: For centuries, pilgrims have climbed to this point to pray toward the mountain. The building you see has been rebuilt and changed over time.

Pochika: And those stone lanterns? People seem interested in lifting something.

Pochikichi: They're called Omokaruishi. According to a traditional belief, you make a wish, lift the lantern's stone top and compare its weight with what you expected. Feeling lighter is considered a favourable sign.

Pochika: That's a belief, not a prediction, right?

Pochikichi: Right. Treat it as a religious custom and follow the instructions posted there.

Pochika: Are we climbing to the summit?

Pochikichi: Not on this route. Return downhill through the shrine grounds, then walk west to Keihan Fushimi-inari Station. Allow twenty to twenty-five minutes.

Sources: Fushimi Inari Taisha — Okusha Hohaisho and Omokaruishi, Fushimi Inari Taisha — Official History, Fushimi Inari Taisha — Visitor Rules

5. 05 — From Fushimi to Tofuku-ji: Two Stops on the Keihan Railway

Stand outside Keihan Fushimi-inari Station after returning from the shrine. Use the northbound platform for trains toward Demachiyanagi that stop at Tofukuji. Alternatively, follow a pedestrian navigation route north toward Tofuku-ji. Do not play this track while crossing a road or railway crossing.

Pochika: We've finished the shrine, and now we're taking a train to a Zen temple. Is Tofuku-ji far away?

Pochikichi: Not far. From Keihan Fushimi-inari Station, take a northbound train toward Demachiyanagi and get off at Tofukuji. It's two stops, passing Toba-kaido.

Pochika: Could we walk instead?

Pochikichi: Yes. Walking between the shrine area and Tofuku-ji takes roughly twenty-five to thirty minutes, depending on your route and pace.

Pochika: Why are these two places so different?

Pochikichi: Fushimi Inari is a Shinto shrine centred on worship of Inari Okami. Tofuku-ji is a Buddhist Zen temple established in the thirteenth century.

Pochika: Let's imagine travelling through this area in 1910.

Pochikichi: The Keihan railway hadn't opened its line here yet. Its original Osaka-to-Kyoto service began in 1910, changing travel along the eastern side of Kyoto.

Pochika: So this train route belongs to Kyoto's modern history.

Pochikichi: Yes. Look at the station signs for Fushimi-inari, Toba-kaido and Tofukuji. Limited Express trains don't stop at Fushimi-inari, so use a stopping service.

Pochika: And when we arrive?

Pochikichi: Follow the signs and streets east toward Tofuku-ji. Use marked crossings and keep to the pavements.

Pochika: How long until the temple?

Pochikichi: Allow about three to five minutes on the train, plus waiting time, then eleven to fifteen minutes walking to the temple approach.

Sources: Keihan Electric Railway — Information for Travelers, Keihan Electric Railway — Kyoto Sightseeing Itineraries, Keihan Electric Railway — Official Tofukuji Station Map

6. 06 — Tofuku-ji: The Great Zen Temple of Southern Kyoto

Stand on a public path within Tofuku-ji's open precincts where the enormous Sanmon Gate is visible. Do not stand in vehicle access routes. The main outdoor precincts can be viewed without a ticket, but special interior openings and garden areas have separate admission arrangements.

Pochika: This temple is enormous. That wooden gate looks like it belongs to a much bigger city!

Pochikichi: That's Tofuku-ji's Sanmon Gate. It's one of the great surviving gates of Zen Buddhist architecture in Japan.

Pochika: Who built such a huge temple?

Pochikichi: The aristocrat Kujo Michiie began its construction in 1236. He wanted a major temple modelled on the importance of Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji in Nara.

Pochika: Is that where the name comes from?

Pochikichi: Yes. To comes from Todai-ji, and fuku from Kofuku-ji.

Pochika: Let's imagine standing here in 1255.

Pochikichi: The temple's original construction programme had reached completion after nineteen years. Large Buddhist buildings occupied this site, although fires and rebuilding would change the complex later.

Pochika: Is the Sanmon from that first construction?

Pochikichi: No. The present gate was completed in 1425 after earlier fires.

Pochika: What should we look at?

Pochikichi: Look at the massive wooden pillars and the upper storey. Its scale shows the ambitions of the medieval temple.

Pochika: Can we enter every building?

Pochikichi: No. Some buildings are closed except during special openings. The Tsutenkyo area and Hojo Garden charge admission. Kyochika already has a full Tofuku-ji audio guide.

Pochika: Let's head for the famous bridge.

Pochikichi: Follow the visitor signs toward Tsutenkyo. Allow about five to eight minutes.

Sources: Tofuku-ji Official Website — History, Tofuku-ji Official Website — Sanmon Gate, Tofuku-ji Official Website — Visiting Information

7. 07 — Tsutenkyo: The Bridge Above a Valley of Maple Trees

Enter the paid Tsutenkyo and Kaisando visiting area through the designated admission gate. Stand at an allowed viewing position on Tsutenkyo Bridge, or near its entrance if the bridge is crowded. Follow all photography restrictions and staff instructions.

Pochika: I can see why this bridge is famous. We're looking straight down into a valley full of trees.

Pochikichi: This is Tsutenkyo, the covered bridge connecting the Hojo area with Kaisando. The valley beneath is called Sengyokukan.

Pochika: Why are there so many maple trees here?

Pochikichi: Tofuku-ji has a long association with maples. The temple's founding Zen master, Enni, is traditionally credited with bringing a type of Chinese maple to Japan.

Pochika: Let's imagine the year 1380.

Pochikichi: Temple tradition dates the creation of the original crossing to 1380, to help monks travel across the valley. The structure visible today is not that original bridge.

Pochika: What should I look at now?

Pochikichi: Look along the valley in both directions. In spring and early summer, the leaves are green. In autumn, they change colour, producing the view that attracts large numbers of visitors.

Pochika: When is it busiest?

Pochikichi: The temple warns that weekends and holidays during the autumn special visiting period can be extremely crowded. Staff may restrict photography on the bridge.

Pochika: And what are the opening hours?

Pochikichi: Other seasons have different hours. A separate ticket is required, and the autumn period has different pricing. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochika: Let's continue to the garden.

Pochikichi: Follow the designated route back toward the Hojo Garden. Allow about five to eight minutes.

Sources: Tofuku-ji Official Website — Visiting Hours and Admission, Tofuku-ji Official Website — Tsutenkyo History, Tofuku-ji Official Notice — Autumn Crowding and Photography Restrictions

8. 08 — Tofuku-ji's Hojo Garden: Zen Design Meets the Twentieth Century

Enter the paid Hojo Garden area and stand on the designated viewing veranda. Begin by looking at the South Garden's stone arrangements. If time permits, continue around the Hojo to view the other gardens, including the checkerboard arrangement on the north side.

Pochika: These gardens look surprisingly modern. I thought Zen gardens were all hundreds of years old.

Pochikichi: This is one of Tofuku-ji's surprises. The four gardens surrounding the Hojo were designed by the landscape architect Mirei Shigemori in 1939.

Pochika: So a twentieth-century artist designed them for a medieval temple?

Pochikichi: Exactly. Shigemori combined traditional Zen garden materials with abstract modern compositions.

Pochika: Let's travel back to 1939.

Pochikichi: Japan was entering a turbulent period, and the new gardens were being completed around the temple's Hojo. Their design introduced a bold modern approach within an old religious complex.

Pochika: What should I look at first?

Pochikichi: In the South Garden, notice the arrangement of large stones and raked gravel. On the north side, look for the checkerboard pattern formed by square stones and moss.

Pochika: It looks almost like a modern artwork.

Pochikichi: That's an important part of its character. The garden was designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty in 2014.

Pochika: Do we need another ticket after Tsutenkyo?

Pochikichi: Yes. The Hojo Garden has a separate admission area. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochika: And where do we go afterward?

Pochikichi: Leave by the designated exit, then walk back to Keihan Tofukuji Station, about eleven to fifteen minutes. Take a northbound stopping train one stop to Shichijo, then walk east around seven to ten minutes to Sanjusangen-do.

Sources: Tofuku-ji Official Website — Hojo Garden, Tofuku-ji Official Website — Visiting Information, Keihan Electric Railway — Shichijo and Tofukuji Walking Guide

9. 09 — Sanjusangen-do: A Thousand and One Standing Kannon Statues

Stand on the permitted visitor path outside Sanjusangen-do's long wooden main hall. After purchasing admission, remove shoes where instructed and enter the hall. Listen to this track before entering or from an appropriate quiet area outside; do not use phone audio in a way that disturbs worshippers or other visitors. Photography inside the hall is prohibited.

Pochika: This building seems to go on forever. And inside, there are more than a thousand Buddhist statues?

Pochikichi: Yes. Sanjusangen-do is the popular name for Rengeo-in. Its hall is about one hundred and twenty metres long.

Pochika: Why is it called Sanjusangen-do?

Pochikichi: The name means Hall of Thirty-Three Bays. It refers to the thirty-three spaces between the columns in the main hall.

Pochika: Who built it?

Pochikichi: The original hall was completed in 1164 within the palace complex of retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa.

Pochika: Let's imagine standing here in 1164.

Pochikichi: A newly constructed Buddhist hall stood within an imperial residence. The original burned down eighty years later, and the present hall dates from its thirteenth-century reconstruction.

Pochika: And the statues?

Pochikichi: Inside are one thousand and one standing Thousand-Armed Kannon figures, arranged around a large seated Kannon in the centre. The standing figures and the central image are separate.

Pochika: What should I look at?

Pochikichi: Notice the repeated rows of golden figures, then the distinctive faces and poses of the guardian deities.

Pochika: Can we take photographs?

Pochikichi: Not inside. Admission is charged, and the temple has no regular closing day. Kyochika already has a complete Sanjusangen-do guide. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochika: Our last destination is nearby?

Pochikichi: Yes. Leave through the visitor exit and walk about three to five minutes to Kyoto National Museum, across Shichijo Street.

Sources: Sanjusangen-do Official Website — History, Sanjusangen-do Official Website — Buddhist Statues, Sanjusangen-do Official Website — Visiting Information

10. 10 — Kyoto National Museum: From Imperial Treasures to Modern Conservation

Stand outside Kyoto National Museum's visitor entrance on Shichijo Street, where the historic red-brick Meiji Kotokan building can be seen. Keep the entrance clear. If visiting the exhibitions, buy an admission ticket and follow museum rules. The older Meiji Kotokan is closed for upgrades; exhibitions normally use the Heisei Chishinkan Wing, depending on the museum calendar.

Pochika: We've reached the museum. That red-brick building looks completely different from the temples we've just visited.

Pochikichi: That's the Meiji Kotokan, the museum's historic main building. It was designed by architect Tokuma Katayama and completed in 1895.

Pochika: So the museum belongs to Kyoto's modern history?

Pochikichi: Yes. It first opened in May 1897, during a period when Japan was developing new systems to protect and study cultural heritage.

Pochika: Let's imagine standing here in 1897.

Pochikichi: Visitors were entering the newly opened Imperial Museum of Kyoto. The building itself represented a modern approach to collecting, studying and displaying historical objects.

Pochika: What should I look at now?

Pochikichi: Look at the historic red-brick facade. The modern Heisei Chishinkan exhibition building, opened in 2014, creates a contrast with it.

Pochika: Can we see the exhibitions today?

Pochikichi: Check the calendar first. Admission varies by exhibition. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochika: And the museum rules?

Pochikichi: Photography is prohibited in exhibition galleries except designated photo spots. Keep phones silent. Kyochika has a full Kyoto National Museum audio guide.

Pochika: Four very different places, all connected by Kyoto's history.

Pochikichi: Exactly. Our route ends here. Walk west along Shichijo Street for approximately seven minutes to Keihan Shichijo Station.

Sources: Kyoto National Museum — Official History, Kyoto National Museum — Hours, Admission and 2026–2027 Closures, Kyoto National Museum — Visitor Rules