Arashiyama on Foot Audio Guide – Self-Guided Tour in English

Script

1. 01 — Welcome to Arashiyama: From the Railway to the Old Imperial Landscape

If arriving by JR, begin outside the south exit of Saga-Arashiyama Station. If arriving by Randen, begin in the station forecourt. From JR, follow signs toward Nonomiya Shrine and the Bamboo Grove, approximately 10–15 minutes away. From Randen Arashiyama Station, walk north and west along the public streets toward Nonomiya Shrine, approximately 7–10 minutes away. Stop somewhere safe before starting.

Pochika: We're in Arashiyama! I've seen photographs of the bamboo forest, but I didn't realise there was so much history around it. Where do we start?

Pochikichi: First, we walk toward Nonomiya Shrine. Then we'll enter the Bamboo Grove, visit Tenryu-ji, and finish at Togetsukyo Bridge.

Pochika: Was Arashiyama always a sightseeing destination?

Pochikichi: Its landscape has attracted people for centuries. During the Heian period, beginning in 794, members of the imperial court enjoyed the scenery of Saga and Arashiyama.

Pochika: Let's imagine we're here around the year 900. Would there have been a railway station?

Pochikichi: Not for another thousand years. Imagine wooded hills, riverside scenery and estates associated with the imperial court. The surroundings were very different from today's shopping streets.

Pochika: What should I notice as we walk?

Pochikichi: Look toward the wooded mountains west of the town. Those hills are part of the landscape that made Arashiyama famous.

Pochika: And this is a popular area, right?

Pochikichi: Very popular. Kyoto's tourism association recommends early morning visits to avoid some of the daytime crowds. Walk on the pavement, especially along busy roads.

Pochika: All right. Our first stop is the little shrine near the bamboo?

Pochikichi: Yes. From JR, allow ten to fifteen minutes. From Randen, allow seven to ten minutes to Nonomiya Shrine.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Saga and Arashiyama, Kyoto City Tourism — Comfortable Access to Saga and Arashiyama, Kyoto City Tourism — Sightseeing Etiquette in Arashiyama

2. 02 — Nonomiya Shrine: A Princess Preparing for a Sacred Journey

Stand outside Nonomiya Shrine's dark wooden torii gate, on the public approach beside the Bamboo Grove entrance. Keep the entrance clear. If you enter the shrine, observe the small brushwood fences and planted areas without touching them.

Pochika: What an unusual entrance. That torii gate is dark instead of bright red. Is this shrine connected to the bamboo forest?

Pochikichi: Yes. This is Nonomiya Shrine, associated with the ancient custom of preparing an imperial princess to serve at Ise Grand Shrine.

Pochika: A princess lived here?

Pochikichi: A princess selected as Saigu would undergo a period of ritual purification before travelling to Ise. Nonomiya was associated with that preparation.

Pochika: Let's travel back to around the year 900. What would this place have been like?

Pochikichi: Imagine a secluded religious setting at the edge of the imperial capital, where a princess prepared for an important sacred duty. The present structures are not the original ninth-century buildings.

Pochika: And the dark gate?

Pochikichi: It's a kuroki torii, traditionally made from unstripped wood. Look closely at its dark surface and the low brushwood fencing nearby.

Pochika: I've heard this place is mentioned in The Tale of Genji.

Pochikichi: Yes. The shrine appears in the Sakaki chapter of that famous work of fiction. The literary scene is not evidence that its characters actually visited.

Pochika: Can we enter?

Pochikichi: Ordinary visits are free. Respect people praying and don't block the entrance for photographs. The Bamboo Grove begins just beyond here, about one or two minutes away. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Nonomiya Shrine, Kyoto City School Trip Guide — Nonomiya Shrine, Nonomiya Shrine Official Website

3. 03 — Arashiyama Bamboo Grove: A Path Between Green Walls

Enter the public Bamboo Grove path from the Nonomiya Shrine side. Walk toward the western section of the grove. Stop only where there is enough room for other pedestrians and occasional permitted vehicles to pass. Look upward without stepping off the path.

Pochika: Wow. The bamboo is so tall! It feels like the path has green walls on both sides.

Pochikichi: This is Arashiyama's famous Bamboo Grove, one of Kyoto's most photographed walks.

Pochika: How long is the path?

Pochikichi: The main bamboo-lined section runs for roughly four hundred metres, connecting the Nonomiya area with the western end near Okochi Sanso.

Pochika: Was there bamboo here in ancient times?

Pochikichi: The Saga area was associated with aristocratic residences during the Heian period. The surrounding landscape has changed over the centuries, so we shouldn't imagine that today's bamboo stalks were standing here a thousand years ago.

Pochika: Let's imagine the year 1100, then.

Pochikichi: We would be in a district connected with the courtly culture of Heian Kyoto, not on today's internationally famous photography route.

Pochika: The bamboo makes a wonderful sound when the wind moves through it.

Pochikichi: Look upward at the slender stems and leaves. The grove is particularly atmospheric when sunlight filters through the canopy.

Pochika: Is it open all day?

Pochikichi: The public path has no ordinary admission fee or closing day. Daytime crowds can be heavy, especially during cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons. Don't carve the bamboo, cross barriers or enter neighbouring private land. Kyochika already has a full Bamboo Grove audio guide if you want more detail.

Pochika: Let's keep walking.

Pochikichi: Continue west for about five minutes to the end of the main bamboo-lined section.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Saga and Arashiyama, Kyoto City Tourism — Bamboo Grove and Early Morning Visiting, Kyoto City Tourism — Arashiyama Etiquette and Crowding

4. 04 — Beyond the Bamboo: Two Ways to Continue

Stand at the western end of the main Bamboo Grove near the Okochi Sanso entrance, outside the entrance and pedestrian flow. This is the decision point for the optional Jojakko-ji extension. For the shorter route, turn back east along the Bamboo Grove and follow signs to Tenryu-ji North Gate. For the extension, follow public roads northwest toward Jojakko-ji.

Pochika: We've reached the end of the bamboo-lined path. Is this where the walk finishes?

Pochikichi: Not at all. We have two choices. We can go directly to Tenryu-ji, or take an optional detour to Jojakko-ji, a temple on the slopes of Mount Ogura.

Pochika: Is that the mountain behind the trees?

Pochikichi: Yes. Mount Ogura is associated with Japanese poetry. The broader Ogura area has a long literary history, particularly through its connection with classical waka.

Pochika: Let's imagine this area in the year 1200.

Pochikichi: The poet Fujiwara no Teika was active around that time. Tradition associates his poetry work with Mount Ogura, although the exact locations of some historical buildings remain uncertain.

Pochika: So Jojakko-ji wasn't here yet?

Pochikichi: Correct. It was founded near the end of the sixteenth century. The literary history of the hillside is older than the temple.

Pochika: What should I look at now?

Pochikichi: Notice how the dense bamboo path opens toward the surrounding wooded slopes. The transition from bamboo to hillside is part of this area's scenery.

Pochika: Which route would you choose?

Pochikichi: Choose Jojakko-ji if you have another thirty-five to forty-five minutes and can manage steps and a hillside path. Otherwise, continue directly to Tenryu-ji. Both routes meet at its North Gate.

Pochika: And how far is our next stop?

Pochikichi: Jojakko-ji is about ten to fifteen minutes away. If skipping it, Tenryu-ji North Gate is around five to eight minutes back along the bamboo path.

Sources: Jojakko-ji Official History, Jojakko-ji Official Access, Kyoto City Tourism — Saga and Arashiyama

5. 05 — Optional: Jojakko-ji, a Hillside Temple from 1596

Optional track. Follow the public approach to Jojakko-ji and stop outside its admission entrance. After paying admission, continue uphill through the Niomon Gate and toward the Tahoto Pagoda, using the designated paths. The paths include steps and slopes. Do not enter closed buildings or planted areas.

Pochika: This temple feels much quieter than the shopping streets. What is Jojakko-ji famous for?

Pochikichi: Its hillside setting, autumn maples and historic buildings. The temple was founded in 1596 as a retreat for the Buddhist priest Nisshin.

Pochika: So what would this spot have looked like in 1596?

Pochikichi: The temple was just beginning to develop on land donated by the Sumikura family. The hillside buildings visitors see today were constructed or moved here at different times.

Pochika: That gate with the thick thatched roof is beautiful.

Pochikichi: That's the Niomon Gate. It was moved here in 1616 from another temple. The guardian statues are traditionally attributed to the sculptor Unkei, but that attribution is a tradition, not a confirmed fact.

Pochika: And the pagoda farther uphill?

Pochikichi: The Tahoto Pagoda was built in 1620. Look at its layered roof and the hillside trees surrounding it.

Pochika: Can visitors walk all the way up?

Pochikichi: Follow the marked paths and any restrictions. Admission is charged. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochika: What about photography?

Pochikichi: Handheld photography is generally allowed in permitted areas, but the temple prohibits tripods and monopods. Autumn foliage is especially popular in mid-to-late November.

Pochika: Let's head back to the main route.

Pochikichi: Return toward the Bamboo Grove's western section and follow signs to Tenryu-ji North Gate. Allow about fifteen to twenty minutes.

Sources: Jojakko-ji Official History and Buildings, Jojakko-ji Official Visiting Information, Jojakko-ji Official FAQ

6. 06 — Tenryu-ji North Gate: The Shogun Who Built a Temple for an Emperor

Stand outside Tenryu-ji North Gate, reached from the Bamboo Grove side. Keep the ticket entrance clear. If entering, purchase a garden admission ticket at the North Gate and continue along the designated garden path toward Sogenchi Pond.

Pochika: We've arrived at Tenryu-ji from the back. Why is this temple so important?

Pochikichi: Tenryu-ji is a major Zen Buddhist temple and part of Kyoto's UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Pochika: Who founded it?

Pochikichi: The shogun Ashikaga Takauji established it in 1339 to honour Emperor Go-Daigo, who had died that year. The Zen master Muso Soseki became its founding abbot.

Pochika: Wait, weren't the shogun and emperor political rivals?

Pochikichi: Yes. Their relationship belonged to a troubled period of Japanese history. Establishing a temple for the emperor's memorial rites was significant.

Pochika: Let's travel back to 1339. What would this ground have been?

Pochikichi: A new Zen temple was being established on land previously associated with imperial residences. The temple would grow into one of Kyoto's leading religious institutions.

Pochika: And what can we see from this entrance?

Pochikichi: Look at the garden paths and wooded slopes beyond the gate. The mountains form an important part of the temple's setting.

Pochika: Do we need a ticket?

Pochikichi: Yes, the garden charges admission. Buildings require an additional fee and may close for ceremonies. Hours and fees can change, so check the official site on the day you go.

Pochika: Let's see the famous pond.

Pochikichi: Walk through the garden on the marked route. Allow about five to eight minutes to reach a viewing position overlooking Sogenchi Pond.

Sources: Tenryu-ji Official History, Tenryu-ji Official Admission and Access, Tenryu-ji Official 2026 Visiting Schedule

7. 07 — Sogenchi Pond: A Garden That Borrows the Mountains

Stand on the designated garden path beside Sogenchi Pond, preferably where you can see the pond with the main temple buildings behind or beside it and the mountains beyond. Keep to the visitor paths, and do not step onto moss or stones. This track requires paid garden admission.

Pochika: This pond is beautiful. The mountains seem to be part of the garden, even though they're far beyond its walls.

Pochikichi: You've noticed one of its defining features. It's called shakkei, or borrowed scenery. The garden uses the surrounding mountains as part of its composition.

Pochika: Who designed it?

Pochikichi: The Zen master Muso Soseki laid out the garden in the fourteenth century. It still preserves much of its original design.

Pochika: Let's imagine the year 1345. What would someone have seen here?

Pochikichi: Tenryu-ji had just been formally consecrated. The garden was already part of the new Zen temple, using water, rocks and the surrounding landscape rather than elaborate decoration.

Pochika: Are the rocks arranged randomly?

Pochikichi: No. Look across the pond toward the standing stones. One arrangement represents the Dragon Gate Falls, connected with the Chinese legend of a carp transforming into a dragon.

Pochika: So the carp turning into a dragon is a legend?

Pochikichi: Yes. In Zen garden interpretation, it can symbolise spiritual transformation.

Pochika: Can we walk around the whole pond?

Pochikichi: Follow the designated route. The pond garden is a protected historic landscape. Kyochika already has a full Tenryu-ji audio guide explaining its design and history.

Pochika: Where do we go after the garden?

Pochikichi: Continue toward the temple's southern main entrance. Allow approximately eight to ten minutes along the visitor route.

Sources: Tenryu-ji Official Guide — Sogenchi Garden, Tenryu-ji Official History, Kyoto City Tourism — Tenryu-ji Garden and Early Morning Visits

8. 08 — Togetsukyo Bridge: The Moon Crossing the River

Leave Tenryu-ji by its main southern entrance and walk south along the public pavement toward Togetsukyo Bridge. Stop on the north bank in a designated pedestrian area with a clear view of the bridge and mountains. Do not stand in the roadway or stop abruptly on the bridge.

Pochika: There it is, the famous Togetsukyo Bridge! It's wider than I expected, and the mountains make such a beautiful background.

Pochikichi: This is one of Arashiyama's best-known landmarks. Togetsukyo means Moon-Crossing Bridge.

Pochika: Why such a poetic name?

Pochikichi: According to the traditional account, retired Emperor Kameyama compared the moon moving above the bridge to the moon crossing the sky. The name is associated with that story.

Pochika: How old is the bridge?

Pochikichi: A crossing in this area is traditionally traced to a bridge built by the monk Dosho in the ninth century. The present bridge was completed in June 1934.

Pochika: Let's imagine standing here in 1934.

Pochikichi: The present crossing had just been completed. The river and mountains were already famous scenery, but the bridge carried the traffic of a modernising city.

Pochika: It looks wooden. Is it entirely made of wood?

Pochikichi: No. The current structure uses modern materials, while its appearance preserves the traditional character of the crossing.

Pochika: What should I look at from here?

Pochikichi: Look upstream, toward the wooded valley where the river emerges from the mountains. Cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons bring particularly large crowds.

Pochika: Can we cross without paying?

Pochikichi: Yes. It's a public bridge without admission or a regular closing day. Stay on the pedestrian side and keep moving when it's busy. Our next stop is the nearby north-bank riverside viewing area, about two to three minutes away.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Togetsukyo Bridge, Kyoto City Official Tourism Guide — History of Togetsukyo Bridge, Kyoto City Tourism — Access and Pedestrian Safety Around Togetsukyo

9. 09 — The Katsura River: Arashiyama's Changing Landscape

Stand in a safe public riverside viewing area on the north bank of the Katsura River, west of Togetsukyo Bridge. Face upstream toward the wooded gorge and mountains. Keep away from the water's edge when the river is high. After listening, return to the main road and walk north to Randen Arashiyama Station.

Pochika: We've seen the bamboo forest, the Zen temple and the bridge. But now that we're beside the river, I feel like this view brings everything together.

Pochikichi: It does. The Katsura River and surrounding mountains shaped the landscape that made Arashiyama famous.

Pochika: Does the river have another name here?

Pochikichi: The upstream section is commonly called the Hozu River, and this area around Arashiyama is also associated with the name Oi River. Farther downstream, it is known as the Katsura River.

Pochika: Let's imagine we're standing here in 1606. What would the river have been used for?

Pochikichi: Around that time, the merchant Suminokura Ryoi was improving navigation on the Hozu River. River transport helped move goods between the region around Kameoka and Kyoto.

Pochika: And now people come for boat rides and photographs.

Pochikichi: Yes, but the river remains a working natural environment. Water levels and currents can change, so stay in public viewing areas and respect safety barriers.

Pochika: One last thing. Is there a good way to avoid the crowds?

Pochikichi: Kyoto's tourism association recommends early morning visits. The area is particularly busy during spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage. Check the official sightseeing congestion forecast before travelling.

Pochika: So we've followed Arashiyama from its courtly history to Zen gardens, railway stations and today's river scenery.

Pochikichi: Exactly. Our walk ends here. Return to the main street and walk north for about five minutes to Randen Arashiyama Station. From there, trains run toward Shijo-Omiya, with connections to other Randen lines at Katabiranotsuji.

Sources: Kyoto City Tourism — Togetsukyo Bridge, Kyoto City Tourism — Arashiyama Visitor Etiquette and Congestion, Keifuku Electric Railroad — Randen Route Map and Timetables